Changing shaft seal on Bukh DV10LSME Saildrive

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   Fletch,
The bearing came off pretty easy.  It was a little stuck, but not too much trouble.  We kind of had a "Aha" moment when we realized we could just drop the aft end of the shaft enough to slide the bearing off without disturbing any of the gear spacing.  We never took anything out of the drive except the bearing. When I saw that was possible, I was like "hey don't move a thing" lets just sneak it off there and put the new one on.  I have a lot of respect for your info regarding not letting things roll around on the dock.  
The old bearing was not identical to the new bearing, which is a little scary.  Similar but not exact.  I know the one I put on came from Crinmar because it was in original Bukh/Crinmar packaging, so maybe the old one was an adaption...or just from a different period in time.  

You and Bill have been so helpful with this process.  I really appreciate it.

  Ron

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Ron Waterson Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commodore Joined: 21 October 2014 Location: Rivals, KY Status: Offline Points: 118	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ron Waterson Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 March 2016 at 9:33pm
	Fletch, The bearing came off pretty easy. It was a little stuck, but not too much trouble. We kind of had a "Aha" moment when we realized we could just drop the aft end of the shaft enough to slide the bearing off without disturbing any of the gear spacing. We never took anything out of the drive except the bearing. When I saw that was possible, I was like "hey don't move a thing" lets just sneak it off there and put the new one on. I have a lot of respect for your info regarding not letting things roll around on the dock. The old bearing was not identical to the new bearing, which is a little scary. Similar but not exact. I know the one I put on came from Crinmar because it was in original Bukh/Crinmar packaging, so maybe the old one was an adaption...or just from a different period in time. You and Bill have been so helpful with this process. I really appreciate it. Ron
	Hull 147 - Angel's Share

bal149 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Skipper Joined: 14 August 2010 Location: canada Status: Offline Points: 67	Post Options Post Reply Quote bal149 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 October 2021 at 9:01am
	My saildrive leaks. Oil out and water in. I found a company in Denmark that has a seal (2) but won't ship to north america for insurance reasons...crap https://youtu.be/GY0ZPvZRp5g

frfletch Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commodore Joined: 13 May 2008 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 365	Post Options Post Reply Quote frfletch Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 October 2021 at 12:17pm
	Regarding the sail drive rear seal and bearing assembly, I think you have 2 choices. One is to change the whole assembly if it shows damage due to electrolysis, or just change the seal. The seal is a bit of an odd duck, but is obtainable. It is a 17x30x9 and is a double seal. These are available in the open market but not easy to find. Somewhere I have the information on the exact name and info on the seal and will look for it and then post again. Your best current source for Bukh parts is LSM-Diesel, and write to, or speak with Erik who is very helpful and does speak English. They have a catalog on their website and you can order parts from them. For communication with them use info@lsm-diesel.dk. One issue with them is that while their parts prices are very favourable, they will charge a minimum shipment fee of something like $54, so it is better to line up other spares you may need, or check with other Laser owners to find what spares they require, and do a combined order. A seal should only cost something like $10 in the market, so try not to pay $54 to have it shipped. When I first ran into the problem, and on mine the entire rear bearing and seal assembly was eaten away by electrolysis, I made a new one. I could not find the double seal at the time and so I had to purchase 2 pieces of 17x30x5mm, and then mount them back to back. If you try to do that on the original assembly, owing to the two seals combining to make a total of 10mm thick instead of 9mm, you will not be able to fit the spring keeper on the back of the unit together with its thin washer that is meant to go in front of it. In my case, I machined an entirely new rear bearing and seal assembly and allowed the extra milimeter of recess in the back in order to accommodate the twin seals and the retaining keeper (circlip). However, if you are operating in a fresh water environment, then your assembly body is probably all good and you just need to change the seal. I will get back to you with information on the open market seal when I find it. Frank

WJRyan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commodore Joined: 12 February 2008 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 230	Post Options Post Reply Quote WJRyan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 October 2021 at 12:28pm
	If you're looking for another to share shipping with I'm your guy as I need to replace mine too and I was going to add a coupe of other small items. Let me know if interested. - bill
	Bill Ryan, Room4Crew, #155

frfletch Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commodore Joined: 13 May 2008 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 365	Post Options Post Reply Quote frfletch Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 October 2021 at 12:39pm
	Found it. Go to amazon.ca and search for Oil Seal 34665013 by Tohatsu. It will show up an Amazon as Oil Seal Case 346-65013 Fil Tohatsu Nissan outboard 9.9HP, blah, blah, blah. Price is $5.35.00. And a "thank you" to our late friend who shared this info with me. Cheers, Frank

fatjohnz Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commodore Joined: 05 August 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 304	Post Options Post Reply Quote fatjohnz Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 October 2021 at 1:01pm
	Thank you Bill

bal149 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Skipper Joined: 14 August 2010 Location: canada Status: Offline Points: 67	Post Options Post Reply Quote bal149 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 October 2021 at 4:08pm
	Well I log back on with the astounding news that I found a Tohatsu seal that would fit. Looks like I'm late to the start... Thanks everybody for your answers. https://f25.com/oil-seal-17x30x9-tohatsu-mercury-9-9-40-omax-00001143.html 1.50 usd. I ordered 2 . Hopefully this will work. Edited by bal149 - 13 October 2021 at 4:23pm

WJRyan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commodore Joined: 12 February 2008 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 230	Post Options Post Reply Quote WJRyan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 October 2021 at 11:51am
	Thanks Frank for keeping the info and prayers of thanks to Bill of blessed memory too.
	Bill Ryan, Room4Crew, #155

WJRyan Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commodore Joined: 12 February 2008 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 230	Post Options Post Reply Quote WJRyan Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 October 2021 at 11:27am
	Good lead and thanks again but I was surprised when I had to sign for a package thru USPS from Russia, Moscow specifically. The seals are in there and the packages say they are made in Taiwan but came from Russia.
	Bill Ryan, Room4Crew, #155