Changing shaft seal on Bukh DV10LSME Saildrive
Printed From: Laser 28 International Class Association
Category: Laser 28 General
Forum Name: Maintenance
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URL: http://www.laser28.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=442
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Topic: Changing shaft seal on Bukh DV10LSME Saildrive
Posted By: micha571
Subject: Changing shaft seal on Bukh DV10LSME Saildrive
Date Posted: 09 March 2011 at 11:42am
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Hi, I need to change the sealing ring on the shaft of my Bukh DV10 saildrive, since it is leaking oil. I know the right way would be to screw off the lower saildrive-housing, and then change the seal. But the six screws holding the housing are totally rounded off, there is no way of getting them out without damaging the housing. So my question is: Is there a chance of changing the seal from the outside, after removing propeller and zinc anode? Has anyone tried replacing the seal this way? Thanks for any help! Regards, Michael |
Replies:
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 09 March 2011 at 1:02pm
| The rear shaft seal sits in a self contained housing that also holds the rear bearing. It's tendency is to corrode with time. The result of this corrosion is a leaking seal. The complete rear bearing housing no doubt needs to be replaced. You'll be able to confirm this once the prop and zinc have been removed for inspection. You'll need to find a way to remove the bolts even if you have to weld an allen key to them, then replace the bolts afterwards. Goodluck |
Posted By: micha571
Date Posted: 09 March 2011 at 1:16pm
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Hello Bill, thanks for the reply. In an explosion view I saw this bearing housing. But it looked like the sealing ring could be removed by itself, by pulling it out to the rear, after removing prop, anode, locking ring and the washer ? I can't find a way to upload the explosion view, but it is here: http://picasaweb.google.com/Banner280/Winter20102011#5582129308785326482 The seal is No. 20, the washer No. 21 and the locking ring No. 22 in that picture. Or is (how?) the sealing ring fast attached to the bearing housing? Regards, Michael |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 09 March 2011 at 2:02pm
| Yes the seal can be pulled and changed. However once you remove the prop you will see the real problem lies in the housing and not the seal. I have changed this part many times and the housing is always the problem. It just corrodes away and is unable to form a tight seal around the seal and hence the leaking. :) |
Posted By: Gerry McClintoc
Date Posted: 09 March 2011 at 10:32pm
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Hi
I have had success in keeping the seal in and sealed by epoxing around it and building up the corroded housing. Its not a perfect way to do it but it seems to keep mine going without changing the parts. |
Posted By: micha571
Date Posted: 10 March 2011 at 3:17am
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Hi, thanks for your help ! I am thinking of maybe not doing anything right now, but leaving it the way it is for now and tackling the repair next winter. It is not leaking much oil, maybe one or two drops per week now as it stands on land. But how high is the danger of water leaking in and how much water might get into the saildrive and could it be damaged by this when using it like it is for one season? Do you have any hints on this? Otherwise I would just try to change the seal now and change the bearing housing next winter. Regards, Michael |
Posted By: Mad Max
Date Posted: 10 March 2011 at 6:38pm
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Michael When I changed the seal on Mad Max I had the same problem with the bolt heads rounding out. I took the next size larger allen wrench, cut off the L part to make a straight shaft and then slightly taper the end to fit the bolt to get it started. I then pounded the shaft into the hex head which locked in. I was then able to put a good size wrench on the shaft and was able to remove all the studs. I believe the pounding also helped to break the studs loose. Good Luck Dick ------------- Dick #122 |
Posted By: micha571
Date Posted: 14 March 2011 at 4:20am
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Hi, I had success removing the sealing ring from the outside. It came out easier than I expected. The bearing housing seems to be ok, no signs of corrosion. Thanks for your help! Regards, Michael |
Posted By: Chris Ross
Date Posted: 15 April 2011 at 10:24am
| Where does someone get a new seal and housing? |
Posted By: Guests
Date Posted: 15 April 2011 at 10:30am
| I just ordered one last week from Crinmar Marine (http://www.crinmar.com/). Unfortunately they don't last that long here in the salt water, and they're not cheep (~$280). |
Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 18 April 2011 at 11:26pm
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Couple of things: If water starts getting into the gear oil, you will easily see it because the oil will turn light grey in color. It will start looking like well shook salad oil instead of gear oil which should be sort of clear. If you have that situation, I don't think it would hurt anything to overfill the gear unit which will dilute the effects of the small amount of water that gets in, and it will also help lessen the water that gets in by creating some positive pressure head from the inside of the drive unit. Water can only come in because the pressure on the outside is greater than on the inside, and the more oil on the inside will reduce the pressure differential.
Regarding the removal of the bolts, the ideas so far expressed are all useful. The one not mentioned is to drill into the top of the bolts with the appropriate size drill, and remove the screws with an "easy out". If you are not familiar with "easy outs", they sort of look like a cross between a screw and a tap, but are left hand threaded (for use with right hand threaded screws) and the threads are tapered. So when you start it into the end hole you have dilled (made easy by the fact that the drill will center on the warn allen screw hole), you turn the easy out to the left and because it is tapered in tightens up on the screw and then s you keep turning to the left it just unscrews the subject screw. A set of easy outs costs very little at your local machine supply or automotive tool supply store. They are handy to have around. |
Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 15 January 2016 at 10:32pm
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Looks like I have a leak at the shaft seal. I had water in my gear oil, so pulled the boat to check. I drained and refilled, then wrapped a diaper around the sail drive and waited. Although I was hoping that I would find a leak at the drain screw, what I found was an oil stained diaper around the zinc area, which seems to indicate the shaft seal is bad. Fortunately, the boat came with a spare. Now I have to put it on. I have read everything here at site regarding replacement. I have the DV8. I see the ideas for removing screws...does anyone know what size the allen screws are? Would anyone like to provide a step by step from their previous experience? All parts/tools/sealing compounds needed before I crack her open? I would be super grateful. I've had the prop and the zinc off, so I'm good to that point. Thanks, Ron ------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: Mad Max
Date Posted: 16 January 2016 at 8:18am
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Hi Ron I just replaced the seal on mine this fall. I believe the allen wrench is 5 mm, not positive. The seal I used is TCM 17X30X7TC. Metric Oil seal - Saft 0.669 x OD 1.181 from Buffalo Bearings $4.00. You may have luck digging out the old seal. For me its just as easy to remove the bottom half. How ever, the first time I removed it was a little nerve racking breaking the 6 bolts loose. See above post. Also the linkage is a little tricky getting lined up. ------------- Dick #122 |
Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 16 January 2016 at 2:42pm
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Ron, The allen wrenchis 6mm. Clean the allen head of the screw very well to be sure the wrench gets a good bite. It will be a bit tough to get the first crack, but it should yield. Be careful not to damage the screw head or your job will become more difficult. You said that your boat came with a spare seal. Please confirm if you mean that it came with a spare seal (meaning just the rubber seal ring part), or did it come with a spare Rear Bearing and Seal Assembly. Crinmar never sold the seals separately and only sold the entire assembly which cost near $300 if I remember. The original rubber seal is unusual and is no longer available. It was a 30 x 17 x 9mm. What is unusual about it is that it is actually a double seal made so that one seal keeps the oil in and the other keeps the water out. The other response to your post suggests a 30 x 17 x 7mm. That won't do because it is a single seal. If you have a spare seal that is a double seal (note such a seal is configured like two seals placed back-to-back) then you can just change it. It can be done without removing the Rear Bearing and Seal Assembly but it is not easy to get it out. It is possible to pry it out with a screwdriver, then clean up the seal housing and replace with the replacement original seal (if you really, really have one....which I doubt). Otherwise you must take the lower bit off the leg. Not really a problem. 1. Drain the oil. 2. On the port side of the lower leg you will find a flat head screw on the lower side going transversely across the lower part of the leg. That screw holds the bottom of the shifting linkage in place and acts as a pivot for it. Clean out all the marine crustacea, and remove the screw. 3. Remove the 6 allen screws and pop the bottom of the leg off. 4. When you remove the leg, the prop shaft together with gears, multiple spacers, etc, will also drop out. Don't let it fall out with gears rolling around on the dock, and most importantly loosing the sequence of the spacers. These spacers keep the shaft and its gears in perfect alignment with the main drive gear coming down from the motor. If you loose the assembly sequence of the spacers, you will never get the gears properly aligned you will have to follow a procedure that requires having the entire leg out of the boat, which requires removal of the engine. So, you need two people and you must very carefully take that bottom piece off, knowing and expecting the shaft to drop out, and making sure that someone is under it with two hands holding something like a towel waiting to cradle that shaft assembly when it drops. It may not drop.....it may sort of stay in place because of the sealant used in the assembly and it may sort of stick to the upper unit. Then when you turn your back, it will fall out and bits will go all over the place. No! No! No! If it sticks, someone must hold it with a towel, keeping everything in place, while the other person just taps down on the prop side of the shaft and knocks it loose. 5. Lay the shaft assembly somewhere safe preserving its original assembly. Keep it wrapped in the towel. 6. The Rear Seal and Bearing Assembly is trapped between the two parts of the unit. When you tap down on the prop side of the shaft, that assembly will come out with the shaft. That is the only bit you may remove from the assembly. 7. The outside of the Rear Bearing and Seal Assembly has a Stainless cir-clip (keeper) usually retaining a very thin stainless washer, which backs up, protects, and retains the rubber seal. Remove the keeper and the washer. Then place the assembly seal-side down on a piece of wood and knock the seal out from the opposite end using a drift or small screw driver and a hammer. It has also been put in the seal housing using a sealant so will be a little tough. 8. Clean up the seal housing, and then use the required sealant to put in place the replacement seal (which I don't really think you have), and put the washer back on together with the keeper. 9. With the above done you may now reassemble everything. Use the DV8/10 workshop manual as your guide, but it is relatively simple. Your assistant will have to hold the shaft assembly up into its new position with the Rear Bearing and Seal Assembly on the shaft. The Rear Bearing and Seal Assembly has a little slit on the side and that must align with a small tit in the leg housing. This prevents the assembly from spinning with the shaft. Also, on the fore end of the shaft assembly, there is one spacer with a tab on it. That aligns it a special way with the housing also to prevent it spinning. It is easy to pay attention to it when you take the shaft out and then make sure it goes back the same way, otherwise refer to the shop manual. Easier to track it on disassembly though if you are a first timer. 10. On reassembly I use a silicone sealant from Permatex, though that is not the recommended sealant. In any case, I use that, then tighten the screws to just snug, wait for the silicone to set, then torque the screws down. 11. Your next job is to re-align the bottom of the linkage system with the screw hole so that you can replace the pivot screw with the flat head. Use a long screw driver that will fit into the screw hold, or a rod, drift, etc. to help align the hole. Your partner may have to be in the boat gently moving the shift lever around to align the linkage with the hole in the casing. When it is aligned and the rod will go through retract the rod and replace the pivot screw. NEW CHAPTER: Now lets say that you don't have the right replacement seal. If you have the entire new Rear Seal and Bearing Assembly then simply replace the old one with the new. But lets assume you have a seal......probably not a double seal, but the closest size someone could find such as a single 30 x 17 x 7mm. Don't use that. Instead, here is what to do: 1. You are going to buy two seals that are 30 x 17 x 5mm. When you place these back-to-back they will be a total of 10mm thick which when placed into the bearing assembly will not give you enough room to replace the retaining washer and keeper. The original is 9mm. We are going to have to use a lathe to deepen the bore on the Rear Bearing and Seal Assembly by 1mm, or even a bit more, say 1.2mm. There is plenty of meat on the part, so no problem. This will allow the two new seals to be put in place and allow room for the retaining washer and keeper (cir-clip). Literally this is a 5 minute job on a lathe, so if you have one, or have a friend that owns a lathe, bring the beer and get it done. Other than that, take it to any shop with a lathe and they can do it while you wait. It is a very small cut. 2. On re-assembly, place the two seals in the assembly back-to-back with the open sides of the seal such that one faces fore to retain oil, and the other faces aft to keep the water out. Again I use the red silicone sealant from Permatex, but you can use the same or the equivalent of whatever the workshop manual suggests. You just don't want it to leak. The two seals will cost about $4.00 each. A new assembly will be near $300, so it is worth doing. Good luck with the project. When you are done, you will know more about your boat! |
Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 16 January 2016 at 2:45pm
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Ron, One last thing...if you buy or order the replacement seals from an auto parts dealer, make sure to specify that the springs in the seal are stainless. I have ordered these from Lordco in the past, but if your local auto parts dealer can't find them, just go to Amazon and have them sent. |
Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 16 January 2016 at 4:17pm
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Thank you Fletch and Dick. That info will be great to work with. If you look at page 40 and 41 of the manual http://www.cvrm.ca/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Laser28_Manual.pdf I have a spare 17, which is described as "bearing housing". It has a rubber looking ring that fits into a groove on the housing. It looks new. I thought that 17 is the part that needs replaced....do I have that wrong? BTW My boat was in salt water for one year (last owner) of its life...fresh water now. I have the workshop manual you refer to. Ron
------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 16 January 2016 at 9:09pm
| Yes, I see the manual refers to it as the bearing housing. That is it. Be sure the big O ring is in good shape, or replace it. With that part y our job is much easier. |
Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 16 January 2016 at 9:22pm
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Awesome. Thanks for taking the time to explain. Ron ------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: John Mills
Date Posted: 02 February 2016 at 8:09am
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I happen to have the Bukh workshop manual , it came with my boat, not the little maintenance manual - it is fairly big but I could scan and Email to you . ------------- Unplugged # 164 NOTL |
Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 02 February 2016 at 9:15am
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John, Thanks, but the big boy manual is available online. I've printed up the "essential to my work" pages. Your timing on the post is uncanny though....we are having a weird warm winter day here today, and I am heading down to the boat to see if I can crack the Allen bolts today. http://www.boatservicehaarlem.nl/bukh_dv8lsme_manual.pdf ------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 02 February 2016 at 9:49am
| I have both manuals in .pdf format, parts manual and workshop manual I can email if anyone needs them. |
Posted By: John Mills
Date Posted: 02 February 2016 at 1:01pm
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That is great - good luck with your repair ------------- Unplugged # 164 NOTL |
Posted By: bal149
Date Posted: 05 February 2016 at 4:08pm
| To loosen the Allen screws, I would suggest a small impact driver as used in motorcycle repair. One hits the end with a hammer which not only turns the screw but drives it inward. They are less drastic than air powered impact drivers. These were very popular when Philips head screws were used as they prevented stripping the head. |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 05 February 2016 at 4:33pm
| I would not suggest a small impact driver as the screw goes into heli-coils which is threaded into aluminium. I've taken many of the cap screws out with just an allen key that fits a ratchet and they always come out. Just be sure to clean the paint out from where the allen key fits into first so that so the key fits all the way in. |
Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 05 February 2016 at 5:23pm
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Thanks guys. I'm waiting on a little help from a mechanically inclined friend to crack the drive open, but I was able to get the allen screws and the flathead screw loose without incident. It was surprisingly easy. Next warm up, I'll get inside and replace parts. One note, my allen screws were 5mm, not 6. Ron ------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: bal149
Date Posted: 05 February 2016 at 6:56pm
| The small impact drivers are used for 5 and 6 mm screws that are threaded into aluminum. what they really do well is keep the the bit from twisting on the screw head. |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 11 February 2016 at 12:40pm
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Yes they are designed to reduce twisting and damaging of the screw head and also mostly used for philips screw heads. Our saildrive's stainless cap screws are torqued onto stainless heli-coils and not aluminum hence no galvanic corrosion found there. Stainless to aluminum is another situation which luckily we don't have. I recently took apart a few 30 year old saildrives that had never been apart and spent their lives in the tropics in saltwater. The cap screws came out as easily as one found in freshwater.
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bal149 wrote:Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 19 February 2016 at 5:42pm
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This is what my sail drive looks like right now. I thought I was looking at the aft end of the bearing housing, but this looks different than the replacement bearing I have. Perhaps there is another part covering the bearing housing and the bearing housing will reveal itself when I open the SD....or has someone replaced in the past not using original equipment? Just trying to get my ducks in a row before I open her up. https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/YvZk6lhBHUl4rUZ7xmRFhsfY5TJclRbYnqyqLaNwLcK?v=grid&ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy The bearing housing I have as a replacement looks like this https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/SXZcBXNRq1dLJlV57p9lERBs6UZD3LIw9INW7DP8KsD?v=grid&ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy ------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 19 February 2016 at 6:04pm
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Hi Ron. Both pics look perfect. In fact the pic of your existing bearing housing looks perfect. Usually we see corrosion and I see none on your existing one. So can I ask why you have decided to change it? Is water getting into the leg?
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Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 19 February 2016 at 7:43pm
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Your existing one is the best I have seen for being old. It is likely that the seal is worn. Easiest thing for you to do is to just put your new one in that has a new seal in it. That bit you have costs about $300. On the other hand, if you want to keep the old one, just take it out, chuck it up in a lathe, and deepen the bore at the back by about 1.2mm, then buy two 17x30x5mm seals and stick them in back-to-back and reassemble. The seals will be about $4 each. The other places water can get in is at the oil drain screw. Typically this has a hard fiber washer that is meant to seat and seal, but with several removals, etc, perhaps it has been replaced with a ss washer or something with no flex and give leading to a leak, or something simple like that. Easy fix. Last place to leak other than the seal is the flange that separates the lower cap on the leg, but there is no reason for that to develop a leak unless it was not assembled correctly by someone along the boat's history. Otherwise, you leg and seal look great. As Bill said, most have some electrolysis issues at the back end. When the Anode fails, the back portion of that seal and bearing assembly seem to become the new sacrificial anode. |
Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 19 February 2016 at 7:51pm
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Yes. Water in the leg. I put a diaper around the drive and the leak was identified right at the bearing housing. The drain plug did not leak. It has the appropriate Bukh washer. The guy that had the boat before me was great for buying spare parts. ------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 19 February 2016 at 7:55pm
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Thanks for the info guys. I think what I will do is put the new one on, and refurb the old one for next time. My boat was only in salt water for a total of about 12 months on two separate launches. I'm sure that helps with corrosion. The boat started in Lake Erie, then Flathead Lake, then Florida (Salt), then back to fresh water here on the Ohio River. I'm happy to read that you guys think it looks good. Thanks again, Ron ------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 26 February 2016 at 9:43am
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Couple more questions.... I gather there will be a gasket on the bearing cap? Is the gasket something that can be purchased from Crinmar, or do I need to cut one? Any idea of thickness? Second, in the photo below, I'm struggling to understand exactly what I am looking at on the shaft, inside of the bearing housing. What is the flat washer looking part with the metal hook welded to the bottom? I don't see anything that looks like that piece in the manual drawings, nor does my new bearing/seal resemble that on the end. https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/YvZk6lhBHUl4rUZ7xmRFhsfY5TJclRbYnqyqLaNwLcK?_encoding=UTF8&mgh=1&ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy&v=grid ------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 26 February 2016 at 9:57am
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(on the old bearing housing) That is a circlip that holds in place the flat washer. The flat washer protects the seal. The pic of your new bearing housing shows a different circlip with two holes in it. However that new bearing housing is missing the flat washer. You can use the flat washer from the old one. There is no gasket only a rubber O-ring.
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Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 26 February 2016 at 10:29am
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Ahhh...Good on the washer. I had that suspicion, thanks for confirming. Thank you for your kind offer via PM. I will do that. As you can probably tell this job makes me nervous. I would gladly pay someone to do this, but I can not find anyone locally that has any better knowledge or experience than what I have found in this forum. Ron ------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 26 February 2016 at 12:41pm
| No need to be nervous. However please do follow instructions I provided on removing the shaft when you take the bottom off the leg so that you do not lose the correct spacing on the gears. I would say that in keeping your project simple, that is the most important move. The method of re-aligning the gears on the shaft (if you let that assembly fall apart all over the dock) requires procedures that are more easily and accurately done with the entire leg on a work bench. Let's avoid that. |
Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 10 March 2016 at 9:00am
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Just about done with the bearing/seal replacement. Put it back together yesterday, so I need to put the final tighten on the allen screws today. We had one snafu during the process. We found that we did not have to take the gears out of the drive. We cracked the bottom off, lowered the gears just enough to slide the old bearing off the shaft, then snuck the new one in without disturbing anything. We cleaned all the surfaces, screws and holes where old lock tight and gasket gook was. Snafu- In my haste to get things done while assistants arms grew weary holding the gears in place, we did not notice the spacers on the old bearing/seal. The new bearing did not come with them. So we put it back together, then took a closer look at the old one. WHOOPS! Back apart, cleaned up and added the spacers to the new bearing. Second time around we did the job in about 30 minutes. We shifted (motor off) a few times and we seem to have neutral, forward and reverse. After I tighten and add oil, I'll put the diaper back on to check for leaks....fingers crossed. Thanks for all the help. Ron ------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: Winner
Date Posted: 10 March 2016 at 9:24am
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Hi Ron did you happen to take pictures through this process? ------------- Chris Eclipse #240 Thunder Bay, ON |
Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 10 March 2016 at 9:50am
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No pictures, and I felt guilty about that while we were doing the job. The problem was, we would have needed another person to take the photos. We intended to take some photos, but when we realized we could do the job without removing the gears at all, it took all our hands to hold things together, clean and replace. Sorry. ------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 10 March 2016 at 11:46am
| Well done! You were lucky to be able to get the seal off. Sometimes they are sort of glued onto the casing they sit into. |
Posted By: Ron Waterson
Date Posted: 10 March 2016 at 9:33pm
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Fletch, The bearing came off pretty easy. It was a little stuck, but not too much trouble. We kind of had a "Aha" moment when we realized we could just drop the aft end of the shaft enough to slide the bearing off without disturbing any of the gear spacing. We never took anything out of the drive except the bearing. When I saw that was possible, I was like "hey don't move a thing" lets just sneak it off there and put the new one on. I have a lot of respect for your info regarding not letting things roll around on the dock.  The old bearing was not identical to the new bearing, which is a little scary. Similar but not exact. I know the one I put on came from Crinmar because it was in original Bukh/Crinmar packaging, so maybe the old one was an adaption...or just from a different period in time. You and Bill have been so helpful with this process. I really appreciate it. Ron ------------- Hull 147 - Angel's Share |
Posted By: bal149
Date Posted: 13 October 2021 at 9:01am
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My saildrive leaks. Oil out and water in. I found a company in Denmark that has a seal (2) but won't ship to north america for insurance reasons...crap https://youtu.be/GY0ZPvZRp5g |
Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 13 October 2021 at 12:17pm
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Regarding the sail drive rear seal and bearing assembly, I think you have 2 choices. One is to change the whole assembly if it shows damage due to electrolysis, or just change the seal. The seal is a bit of an odd duck, but is obtainable. It is a 17x30x9 and is a double seal. These are available in the open market but not easy to find. Somewhere I have the information on the exact name and info on the seal and will look for it and then post again. Your best current source for Bukh parts is LSM-Diesel, and write to, or speak with Erik who is very helpful and does speak English. They have a catalog on their website and you can order parts from them. For communication with them use info@lsm-diesel.dk. One issue with them is that while their parts prices are very favourable, they will charge a minimum shipment fee of something like $54, so it is better to line up other spares you may need, or check with other Laser owners to find what spares they require, and do a combined order. A seal should only cost something like $10 in the market, so try not to pay $54 to have it shipped. When I first ran into the problem, and on mine the entire rear bearing and seal assembly was eaten away by electrolysis, I made a new one. I could not find the double seal at the time and so I had to purchase 2 pieces of 17x30x5mm, and then mount them back to back. If you try to do that on the original assembly, owing to the two seals combining to make a total of 10mm thick instead of 9mm, you will not be able to fit the spring keeper on the back of the unit together with its thin washer that is meant to go in front of it. In my case, I machined an entirely new rear bearing and seal assembly and allowed the extra milimeter of recess in the back in order to accommodate the twin seals and the retaining keeper (circlip). However, if you are operating in a fresh water environment, then your assembly body is probably all good and you just need to change the seal. I will get back to you with information on the open market seal when I find it. Frank |
Posted By: WJRyan
Date Posted: 13 October 2021 at 12:28pm
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If you're looking for another to share shipping with I'm your guy as I need to replace mine too and I was going to add a coupe of other small items. Let me know if interested. - bill ------------- Bill Ryan, Room4Crew, #155 |
Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 13 October 2021 at 12:39pm
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Found it. Go to amazon.ca and search for Oil Seal 34665013 by Tohatsu. It will show up an Amazon as Oil Seal Case 346-65013 Fil Tohatsu Nissan outboard 9.9HP, blah, blah, blah. Price is $5.35.00. And a "thank you" to our late friend who shared this info with me. Cheers, Frank |
Posted By: fatjohnz
Date Posted: 13 October 2021 at 1:01pm
| Thank you Bill |
Posted By: bal149
Date Posted: 13 October 2021 at 4:08pm
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Well I log back on with the astounding news that I found a Tohatsu seal that would fit. Looks like I'm late to the start... Thanks everybody for your answers. https://f25.com/oil-seal-17x30x9-tohatsu-mercury-9-9-40-omax-00001143.html 1.50 usd. I ordered 2 . Hopefully this will work. |
Posted By: WJRyan
Date Posted: 18 October 2021 at 11:51am
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Thanks Frank for keeping the info and prayers of thanks to Bill of blessed memory too. ------------- Bill Ryan, Room4Crew, #155 |
Posted By: WJRyan
Date Posted: 28 October 2021 at 11:27am
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Good lead and thanks again but I was surprised when I had to sign for a package thru USPS from Russia, Moscow specifically. The seals are in there and the packages say they are made in Taiwan but came from Russia. ------------- Bill Ryan, Room4Crew, #155 |