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Engine Issue

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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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Joined: 15 September 2002
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 October 2019 at 12:28pm
I assume the wiring from the ign panel to the engine looks normal? No swollen or half melted wires for example? If that's all normal I would replace the switch asap because it obviously has worn or compromised electrical contacts inside. It doesn't take much for a worn out ign switch to melt the wiring harness and light the boat on fire. In 1985 we had delivered a new L28 to a client in Florida and the ign switch was defective and caused the wiring harness to melt and the boat caught on fire and sank to the bottom of it's slip. It was a total write-off. The insurance concluded that was the cause of the fire. I've also seen a few owners need to replace the ign switch so this can and does happen.  
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WJRyan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2019 at 12:30pm
Total confession & lesson learned.

Followed all the steps noted above and found good and tight connections, full continuity from point a to b to engine and beyond.  No build up anywhere, and to be sure I cleaned and wire brushed contacts everywhere.  Then a wise man (Allen to be accurate) asks me, what is the battery reading?  I measure and it say 12 1/2 V.  Then he asks, how's the water?  I respond.... water?  Never knew to check, all batteries in my past were sealed so the 3 yro battery was dry & toasted.

Lesson learned #1:  Check the water in your battery monthly.  Feel free to send me your email and I'll add you to me Outlook reminder!
Lesson learned #2: Allen suggested I put the trickle charger on a timer, said it wasn't a good idea to have it cooking all the time.

Results are a new battery and everything is working fine.   And I learned some new things!!


Bill Ryan,

Room4Crew, #155
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Jamie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jamie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2020 at 9:48pm
Guys,

I am an engine luddite.

I am trying to order the stop solenoid at LSM Diesel.   

I believe this is the part # (612E0060).  Although the website calls it a "stop magnet".

Is a stop magnet a stop solenoid?

I tried to upload a screen shot from the website, but I can't figure out how to post an image that is local on my computer

Thanks.
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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2020 at 10:09pm
That is a European description and yes that's the part.
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Jamie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jamie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 April 2020 at 5:02pm
Hi Everyone,

Quick update on my engine shut off issues (engine is not shutting off consistently with the key).

I have checked the ignition/wiring and everything seems to be in working order.   So now I have to check the solenoid.   Someone mentioned to me that the distance of the "throw" in some solenoids can be adjusted.  Does anyone know if the Bukh solenoids can be adjusted?

It is not an easy component to get access to.   It looks like I have to remove the starter motor to get to it.  I see 2-3 bolts at the top of the starter motor that look like they are holding it in place.  Do I just need to remove those bolts to take the motor off?   

Also, do you guys take the wood bulkheads off when you work on your engines?  It would be easier if I could remove it but all of the plumbing for my head is mounted to it so it would be a pain to take it off.

A few other questions on other various items that I could use some help with:

1.  Last season was my first with the boat.  All summer I had no water in the bilge.  This spring after I took the cover off the boat I can see the bilge filling with water after each rain.  Is there a common source of water getting into the bilge that experienced people know about?  I cannot find the source.

2.  The inlet for the bilge pump in the cockpit is just a hose that is lying on the floor of the hull that ends at the head.   It is not attached to anything and there is no fitting/strainer on the end.   What should the bilge pump be attached to?  

FOR ANYONE LOOKING TO BUY A GORI PROP: 

I purchased a couple of parts from LSM over the winter and just for the heck of it I asked if they sold Gori props.   They did and I saved $400 on my new prop (including shipping).  It seems the distributors in the USA have no stock so they drop ship them from Gori.  

The best price in the US was $1,375 +$85 shipping.

LSM charged $850 + $180 shipping (a strong dollar helped).

Thanks in advance for your help.  It is much appreciated.



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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 April 2020 at 8:58pm
The solenoid is ‘on’ or ‘off’. You can touch a 12v line to the tab on the back to see if it fires. There is some adjustment in the solenoid mount; the solenoid is threaded. The nuts adjust the depth and you can remove it by removing the outer nut. When the solenoid fails I leave it in place and attach a loop of zip tie around the solenoid-tip/shutoff-lever and pull it with a string up to the cockpit thru the lazarette by the ignition panel. The solenoid at least pulls the lever back open.
I have detached things from those engine bulkheads so that they are easy to remove. On the fuel tank side I have cut reliefs in the bulkheads so they can lift out with the hoses in place.
Water comes from mysterious places after she is on the hard for the winter. Dry the bilge and then keep an eye on where the water is coming from. If you can’t find the source then it’s not that bad.
The cockpit pump is a high volume pump. I use mine for emergencies; test it. I have a hose long enough to reach thru the head to the bilge so I can keep the batteries above water when we’re flooding ;- )
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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 April 2020 at 9:55pm
fatjohnz comments are bang on... the starboard engine panel is removable by just removing the screws you see... very fast and simple... not like the port panel. This Stb panel needs to be removed to access the adjustment for the solenoid. Or to test it and observe it properly. (it's under the the bottom of the starter motor.) The windows leak like crazy since the boat was new... it's there you will find the leaks. Nice info on the prop! Thanks. The black wire that powers the solenoid will have 12v showing when the key is turned to off position. Check this first. This wire should be fused with a 10 amp fuse... or it can burn out the solenoid if left in off position. It did not come fused... something that should be added.
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Ron Waterson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 April 2020 at 5:49pm
Leaks - Check for aging scupper hoses.
Hull 147 - Angel's Share
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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2022 at 4:19pm
On the prop discussion...
My prop suddenly seems to be shaking the boat (new behavior this season aka last 4 weewks). I checked the motor mounts and they are all good. Engine idles smoothly. I took a dive and there is nothing wrapped on the prop. The prop seems to open as usual (it has always rubbed a little on the top of the castle nut, but that is usual).
I suppose the prop could have gotten bent and when I searched the forum I found this tidbit about the sacrificial part in the prop. Maybe it has partially failed?
I'm assuming that I'll have to pull the boat soon to investigate further. I can't imagine anything could bend the stainless steel shaft... do you?
So I guess my best bet is to get another prop on hand. I'll have to check if the gori parts on the original post still exist....
thanks, john
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Ron Waterson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2022 at 7:10pm
I doubt its the sacrificial part of the prop causing vibration.  The point of the sacrificial prop part is to prevent you from damaging your sail drive gears in a prop wrap or collision.  I think when they go, you just don't have any power because the SD shaft is just spinning inside the prop now.  The prop barely turns.  Mine did not create vibration.   

I'm thinking to test you could turn off motor, put in gear, dive down and see if you can move the prop.  If it spins around by hand while in gear with motor off, your sacrificial bearing is done.  

If the pin in the castle nut sheared off and the nut is coming loose, that might cause some vibration. 
Hull 147 - Angel's Share
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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 May 2022 at 9:55pm
The vibration is a head scratcher. The castle nut cotter pin is still in place and we have plenty of thrust.
I thought maybe the travel lift strap got on the prop but there was no visible damage when I changed the oil and painted the saildrive when she was out of the water in the off season.
I'll monitor it and see if it gets worse.
thx, js
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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2022 at 3:31pm
The prop links that Bill Layton had provided are no longer valid. I contacted Gori with the engine and sku data and they gave me updated info for the little DV8/DV10LSME
11.5" x 9.5 x 2-blade LHS           
12" x 8 x 2-blade LHS
Prices are in the mid $1800's
js
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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 July 2022 at 8:05am
Believe it or not, the bushing inside the prop had deteriorated but had not broken free. On the short haul I could wiggle the prop a good 1/2" inch off center. The new prop fits very tight and there is no play. The boat powers along much better now.
john
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Ron Waterson View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 July 2022 at 9:13am
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