I had an issue with my engine/saildrive over the weekend and I am looking for some insight.

I was motoring back to my mooring any the boat lost forward thrust.   The engine was on...had rpms etc.  but it just wasn't moving.

I got back to the mooring and dove down to take a look at the saildrive...I was thinking a big bunch of seaweed was caught between the saildrive and the keel or something.

When I dove down there was no seaweed.   The prop opened and closed easily...no issues.   The boat is going in and out of gear just fine...but no matter how much you increase the throttle (forward and backward) the boat barely moves.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks.

Old Gori Prop?  They have a sacrificial part within that is intended to save the sail drive in the event of something suddenly prohibiting the prop from turning...aground...prop wrap.  I think they can also give out with time.  Yours could be 30+ years old and has simply failed from aging.  Mine reacted the same way as you describe after a mild prop wrap.  Non repairable to my knowledge.  New prop is the fix.  FYI - When I purchased my new prop, I was told the sacrificial part was no longer used in the replacement props.  

You may want to look at this post.

http://laser28.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=721&KW=&PID=3156&title=prop-problem#3156

  Ron

Good call Ron, although all L28's rec'd the DV10 engine the props supplied originally with the engine were the DV8 Gori props even though Gori later on started supplying a DV10 prop with a slightly bigger pitch. Either prop works well. Here are the updated links

These are the two versions available from them

I am hoping to squeeze a few more weeks out of the season.  

So I guess a haul is going to be required.

Any idea the labor to replace this?  Is it just installed from under the boat when hauled?

Thanks,

Jamie

One last engine question.   My engine does not shut off with any consistency.    There seems to be an issue with the key switch.

Do you know where I may find a replacement?

Thanks again.

If you meant labor costs on the prop, it's really a pretty easy do it yourself job.  Have a zinc ready to replace old one while you have the prop off.  

  Ron  

http://www.lsm-diesel.dk/2012/bestil.php?lang=uk&txk=initshop&n0=4&n1=Partnr.&n2=Beskrivelse&n3=Pris%20ekskl.%20moms&n4=Antal

Best place to buy Bukh parts from.. they are in Denmark and charge approx. $50. for shipping

Also be sure of the obvious things... like loose battery terminals or where the batt cables bolt onto the engine. Be sure all connections are good.

I did check the battery but not where is attaches to the engine, will check that as well as behind the key switch. 

When I checked the site you shared and searched for ignition switch these 4 came up:

Am I searching fo rthe right thing here?  I think ignition switch and I see the part where the key goes in and turns - are these them?

You need to use the correct part number first

in the parts manual it says it's 552K0006

Yikes!!!

Pricing quoted on a site in Denmark are  in DKK (Danish Krone) Exchange that into US dollars and it's roughly $98. US dollars. Otherwise remove the switch and take to some auto stores to see if they can replace it.

If you can find a part number on it or a name google it to see where else it might be sold.

You didn't state what was happening when it didn't start. Other than moving the key made it work. Was the starter not cranking and then after wiggling the key the starter would crank? 

Total confession & lesson learned.

Followed all the steps noted above and found good and tight connections, full continuity from point a to b to engine and beyond.  No build up anywhere, and to be sure I cleaned and wire brushed contacts everywhere.  Then a wise man (Allen to be accurate) asks me, what is the battery reading?  I measure and it say 12 1/2 V.  Then he asks, how's the water?  I respond.... water?  Never knew to check, all batteries in my past were sealed so the 3 yro battery was dry & toasted.

Lesson learned #1:  Check the water in your battery monthly.  Feel free to send me your email and I'll add you to me Outlook reminder!

Lesson learned #2: Allen suggested I put the trickle charger on a timer, said it wasn't a good idea to have it cooking all the time.

Results are a new battery and everything is working fine.   And I learned some new things!!

I am an engine luddite.

I am trying to order the stop solenoid at LSM Diesel.   

I believe this is the part # (612E0060).  Although the website calls it a "stop magnet".

Quick update on my engine shut off issues (engine is not shutting off consistently with the key).

I have checked the ignition/wiring and everything seems to be in working order.   So now I have to check the solenoid.   Someone mentioned to me that the distance of the "throw" in some solenoids can be adjusted.  Does anyone know if the Bukh solenoids can be adjusted?

It is not an easy component to get access to.   It looks like I have to remove the starter motor to get to it.  I see 2-3 bolts at the top of the starter motor that look like they are holding it in place.  Do I just need to remove those bolts to take the motor off?   

Also, do you guys take the wood bulkheads off when you work on your engines?  It would be easier if I could remove it but all of the plumbing for my head is mounted to it so it would be a pain to take it off.

A few other questions on other various items that I could use some help with:

1.  Last season was my first with the boat.  All summer I had no water in the bilge.  This spring after I took the cover off the boat I can see the bilge filling with water after each rain.  Is there a common source of water getting into the bilge that experienced people know about?  I cannot find the source.

2.  The inlet for the bilge pump in the cockpit is just a hose that is lying on the floor of the hull that ends at the head.   It is not attached to anything and there is no fitting/strainer on the end.   What should the bilge pump be attached to?  

FOR ANYONE LOOKING TO BUY A GORI PROP: 

I purchased a couple of parts from LSM over the winter and just for the heck of it I asked if they sold Gori props.   They did and I saved $400 on my new prop (including shipping).  It seems the distributors in the USA have no stock so they drop ship them from Gori.  

The best price in the US was $1,375 +$85 shipping.

LSM charged $850 + $180 shipping (a strong dollar helped).

Thanks in advance for your help.  It is much appreciated.

I'm thinking to test you could turn off motor, put in gear, dive down and see if you can move the prop.  If it spins around by hand while in gear with motor off, your sacrificial bearing is done.  

If the pin in the castle nut sheared off and the nut is coming loose, that might cause some vibration.