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Changing shaft seal on Bukh DV10LSME Saildrive

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WJRyan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Changing shaft seal on Bukh DV10LSME Saildrive
    Posted: 28 October 2021 at 11:27am
Good lead and thanks again but I was surprised when I had to sign for a package thru USPS from Russia, Moscow specifically.  The seals are in there and the packages say they are made in Taiwan but came from Russia.
Bill Ryan,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2021 at 11:51am
Thanks Frank for keeping the info and prayers of thanks to Bill of blessed memory too.
Bill Ryan,

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bal149 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bal149 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 October 2021 at 4:08pm
Well I log back on with the astounding news that I found a Tohatsu seal that would fit. Looks like I'm late to the start...
Thanks everybody for your answers.                                                 https://f25.com/oil-seal-17x30x9-tohatsu-mercury-9-9-40-omax-00001143.html
1.50 usd.
I ordered 2 .
Hopefully this will work.

Edited by bal149 - 13 October 2021 at 4:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 October 2021 at 1:01pm
Thank you Bill
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 October 2021 at 12:39pm
Found it. Go to amazon.ca and search for Oil Seal 34665013 by Tohatsu. It will show up an Amazon as Oil Seal Case 346-65013 Fil Tohatsu Nissan outboard 9.9HP, blah, blah, blah. Price is $5.35.00.

And a "thank you" to our late friend who shared this info with me.

Cheers,
Frank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 October 2021 at 12:28pm
If you're looking for another to share shipping with I'm your guy as I need to replace mine too and I was going to add a coupe of other small items.  Let me know if interested.  - bill
Bill Ryan,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 October 2021 at 12:17pm
Regarding the sail drive rear seal and bearing assembly, I think you have 2 choices. One is to change the whole assembly if it shows damage due to electrolysis, or just change the seal. The seal is a bit of an odd duck, but is obtainable. It is a 17x30x9 and is a double seal. These are available in the open market but not easy to find. Somewhere I have the information on the exact name and info on the seal and will look for it and then post again. Your best current source for Bukh parts is LSM-Diesel, and write to, or speak with Erik who is very helpful and does speak English. They have a catalog on their website and you can order parts from them. For communication with them use info@lsm-diesel.dk. One issue with them is that while their parts prices are very favourable, they will charge a minimum shipment fee of something like $54, so it is better to line up other spares you may need, or check with other Laser owners to find what spares they require, and do a combined order. A seal should only cost something like $10 in the market, so try not to pay $54 to have it shipped.

When I first ran into the problem, and on mine the entire rear bearing and seal assembly was eaten away by electrolysis, I made a new one. I could not find the double seal at the time and so I had to purchase 2 pieces of 17x30x5mm, and then mount them back to back. If you try to do that on the original assembly, owing to the two seals combining to make a total of 10mm thick instead of 9mm, you will not be able to fit the spring keeper on the back of the unit together with its thin washer that is meant to go in front of it. In my case, I machined an entirely new rear bearing and seal assembly and allowed the extra milimeter of recess in the back in order to accommodate the twin seals and the retaining keeper (circlip). However, if you are operating in a fresh water environment, then your assembly body is probably all good and you just need to change the seal.

I will get back to you with information on the open market seal when I find it.

Frank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bal149 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 October 2021 at 9:01am
My saildrive leaks. Oil out and water in. I found a company in Denmark that has a seal (2) but won't ship to north america for insurance reasons...crap
https://youtu.be/GY0ZPvZRp5g
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 March 2016 at 9:33pm
Fletch,

The bearing came off pretty easy.  It was a little stuck, but not too much trouble.  We kind of had a "Aha" moment when we realized we could just drop the aft end of the shaft enough to slide the bearing off without disturbing any of the gear spacing.  We never took anything out of the drive except the bearing. When I saw that was possible, I was like "hey don't move a thing" lets just sneak it off there and put the new one on.  I have a lot of respect for your info regarding not letting things roll around on the dock.  Smile

The old bearing was not identical to the new bearing, which is a little scary.  Similar but not exact.  I know the one I put on came from Crinmar because it was in original Bukh/Crinmar packaging, so maybe the old one was an adaption...or just from a different period in time.  

You and Bill have been so helpful with this process.  I really appreciate it.

  Ron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 March 2016 at 11:46am
Well done! You were lucky to be able to get the seal off. Sometimes they are sort of glued onto the casing they sit into.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 March 2016 at 9:50am
No pictures, and I felt guilty about that while we were doing the job.  The problem was, we would have needed another person to take the photos.  We intended to take some photos, but when we realized we could do the job without removing the gears at all, it took all our hands to hold things together, clean and replace.  Sorry.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Winner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 March 2016 at 9:24am
Hi Ron did you happen to take pictures through this process?
Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 March 2016 at 9:00am
Just about done with the bearing/seal replacement.  Put it back together yesterday, so I need to put the final tighten on the allen screws today.  We had one snafu during the process.  We found that we did not have to take the gears out of the drive. We cracked the bottom off, lowered the gears just enough to slide the old bearing off the shaft, then snuck the new one in without disturbing anything.  We cleaned all the surfaces, screws and holes where old lock tight and gasket gook was.  Snafu- In my haste to get things done while assistants arms grew weary holding the gears in place, we did not notice the spacers on the old bearing/seal.  The new bearing did not come with them. So we put it back together, then took a closer look at the old one. WHOOPS!  Back apart, cleaned up and added the spacers to the new bearing. Second time around we did the job in about 30 minutes. We shifted (motor off) a few times and we seem to have neutral, forward and reverse.  After I tighten and add oil, I'll put the diaper back on to check for leaks....fingers crossed. 

Thanks for all the help.  

  Ron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 February 2016 at 12:41pm
No need to be nervous. However please do follow instructions I provided on removing the shaft when you take the bottom off the leg so that you do not lose the correct spacing on the gears. I would say that in keeping your project simple, that is the most important move. The method of re-aligning the gears on the shaft (if you let that assembly fall apart all over the dock) requires procedures that are more easily and accurately done with the entire leg on a work bench. Let's avoid that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 February 2016 at 10:29am
Ahhh...Good on the washer.  I had that suspicion, thanks for confirming.  

Thank you for your kind offer via PM.  I will do that.  As you can probably tell this job makes me nervous. I would gladly pay someone to do this, but I can not find anyone locally that has any better knowledge or experience than what I have found in this forum.  

  Ron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 February 2016 at 9:57am
(on the old bearing housing) That is a circlip that holds in place the flat washer. The flat washer protects the seal. The pic of your new bearing housing shows a different circlip with two holes in it. However that new bearing housing is missing the flat washer. You can use the flat washer from the old one.

There is no gasket only a rubber O-ring. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 February 2016 at 9:43am
Couple more questions....

I gather there will be a gasket on the bearing cap?  Is the gasket something that can be purchased from Crinmar, or do I need to cut one?  Any idea of thickness?

Second, in the photo below, I'm struggling to understand exactly what I am looking at on the shaft, inside of the bearing housing.  What is the flat washer looking part with the metal hook welded to the bottom?  I don't see anything that looks like that piece in the manual drawings, nor does my new bearing/seal resemble that on the end. 

https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/YvZk6lhBHUl4rUZ7xmRFhsfY5TJclRbYnqyqLaNwLcK?_encoding=UTF8&mgh=1&ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy&v=grid

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2016 at 7:55pm
Thanks for the info guys.  I think what I will do is put the new one on, and refurb the old one for next time.  My boat was only in salt water for a total of about 12 months on two separate launches.  I'm sure that helps with corrosion.  The boat started in Lake Erie, then Flathead Lake, then Florida (Salt), then back to fresh water here on the Ohio River.  I'm happy to read that you guys think it looks good.

Thanks again,

  Ron
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2016 at 7:51pm
Yes.  Water in the leg.  I put a diaper around the drive and the leak was identified right at the bearing housing.  The drain plug did not leak.  It has the appropriate Bukh washer.  The guy that had the boat before me was great for buying spare parts.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2016 at 7:43pm
Your existing one is the best I have seen for being old. It is likely that the seal is worn. Easiest thing for you to do is to just put your new one in that has a new seal in it. That bit you have costs about $300. On the other hand, if you want to keep the old one, just take it out, chuck it up in a lathe, and deepen the bore at the back by about 1.2mm, then buy two 17x30x5mm seals and stick them in back-to-back and reassemble. The seals will be about $4 each.

The other places water can get in is at the oil drain screw. Typically this has a hard fiber washer that is meant to seat and seal, but with several removals, etc, perhaps it has been replaced with a ss washer or something with no flex and give leading to a leak, or something simple like that. Easy fix. Last place to leak other than the seal is the flange that separates the lower cap on the leg, but there is no reason for that to develop a leak unless it was not assembled correctly by someone along the boat's history.

Otherwise, you leg and seal look great. As Bill said, most have some electrolysis issues at the back end. When the Anode fails, the back portion of that seal and bearing assembly seem to become the new sacrificial anode.
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