Deck hardware upgrade pics |
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Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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Posted: 13 October 2009 at 1:10pm |
Here are some pics I took of typical deck hardware upgrades we've done here in Montreal.
Spinnaker Twings setup - notice old clam cleats have been removed Harken Primary winches - these B32.2 STA winches fit our aluminum support the best and work very well. Harken traveler - Notice how we've added a low profile track onto the original Schaefer high beam track.... its the least costly traveler upgrade Spinlock XTS clutches - these clutches actually work on all high modulus line and have zero slippage. Some may deem this overkill, but the new XAS clutches slipped no matter what we did with them. Solar Powered Ventilator - on the foredeck, this is removable and a deck cap fits in place when racing. This solved the mildew problem we were experiencing in humid Montreal. Fwd Hatch Webbing - This allows foredeck crew the ability to open the hatch while on deck.... just a piece of webbing hooked onto the latch handles Lifeline webbing (pic of convictus) with vertical straps, this prevents the straps from opening up and allowing someone to slide out. We have seen this with windward knockdowns going downhill. Edited by Bill Layton - 14 October 2009 at 10:03am |
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WJRyan
Commodore Joined: 12 February 2008 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 230 |
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Great pics Bill and thanks! Could you describe your line layout from port to starboard? It would help to understand your clutch layout if you could help me "see" the way you have your lines set up. Thank you!
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Bill Ryan,
Room4Crew, #155 |
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Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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These are thumbnail pics , clicking on them will enlarge them so you can read the labels on the starboard side
On the port side starting on the inside and working outboard I have: Outhaul Cunningham Main Hal Genoa Hal Andiamo, I assume you can see the pics now? |
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WarBird
Skipper Joined: 25 January 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 92 |
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Bill,
Which traveller part # did you use. Does it have enough clearance fore and aft is the recess? What is your thought on using track with no drop, i.e. straight? WarBird |
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Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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This information updated March 15, 2011 to reflect the new harken parts now available.
Harken Traveler system to add onto your existing High Beam track: R27 1.5Meter Low Beam track 1522 End Stops (pair) T2732B Car + StandupToggle + control blocks + dead ends for 3:1 system Harken Traveler System for those of you who want to replace your original High-Beam system: Track Info: Vertical Bend: Ends up Chord Depth: 1-5/8" Chord Length: 52-5/8" Length: 53" Parts: R27HB 1.5Meter Track (High Beam Track) T2732B Car + StandupToggle + control blocks + dead ends for 3:1 system 1523 (pair) End stops 1530 Simple Bend for Track Note: Tracks above come at 1.5 meter lengths but will need to be cut to fit the cockpit width. Harken will cut this for you for an additional fee, but it's just as easy with a hacksaw. Traveler Cars http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=4501&taxid=478 Track Information http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5217&taxid=480 Edited by Bill Layton - 07 January 2015 at 10:37am |
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khardy
Commodore Joined: 22 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 132 |
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Thanks Bill. Glad we can finally post pictures. Did you upgrade your vang?
Warbird - I have a straight track. If you search posts for "traveler" you'll find my post describing what I did. |
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lifar
Rookie Joined: 19 December 2009 Location: Aurora Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Bill, what is the brand name for the solar vent ? and is it difficult to install? Thanks |
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Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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Nicro Fico ventilators, now owned by Marinco used to sell a 3 or 4 inch removable solar powered vent that works great (popped right out for racing and a plastic plate just snapped in)... but they do not sell this model any longer. They only sell permanently mounted models I believe.
http://www.marinco.com/brand/nicro You might be able to find this model still in some stores, like defender industries. Also someone mentioned that possibly plastimo might make some interesting ventilators, but I have yet looked into them. Hope this helps Bill Edited by Bill Layton - 14 April 2010 at 5:21pm |
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lifar
Rookie Joined: 19 December 2009 Location: Aurora Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Thank you Bill, I found one in West marine store in Toronto. It is fixed, not removable.
Any idea where I can find a fuel tank, mine has a bit leakage at the lower corner of the tank and has caused major disel odor in the boat which made me to clean up the whole boat but the smell is still there.
Thanks again,
Farzad
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Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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You won't find a custom built tank for the L28 like you have now. The best solution is to remove it and have it repaired properly (re welded) since its dimensions are unique to where it's mounted in the Laser. Its an aluminum tank, they do not corrode, so re welding always solves the leaks. FYI, I've only heard of one other person having this problem with their tank.
Also note that any fuel spillage even from the engine compartment ends up in the front lower corner where the seacock is.... be sure its a tank problem before you pull it cheers Edited by Bill Layton - 18 April 2010 at 10:35am |
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Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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Click on any of these pics to see a larger image
Here is the original base with a bent base plate and 90 degree bracket broken at the plate and the vertical tube bent away from the plate (the typical failure we all see) Here is an original stanchion base modified. It worked well never got bent again regardless on how hard it was used by the crew on the rail Here is the final base I had built that worked well, notice the vertical tube was punch press flared into the plate like the original and welded underneath, with the additional support bars on top. I had 6 of these built for my boat 20 years ago and they are still good. Stainless Outfitters located in Barrie Ontario, Canada. Is a supplier of these bases and builds pulpits and sternrails as well. http://www.stainlessoutfitters.com 1-800-268-0395 Page 6 of this link shows the L28 modified base http://stainlessoutfitters.com/lifeline/lifeline/lifeline.html Alternatively you can send this link to any stainless shop along with your damaged stanchion base and they should be able to repair/modify or replace them. Edited by Bill Layton - 27 May 2013 at 2:02pm |
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WJRyan
Commodore Joined: 12 February 2008 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 230 |
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You rock Bill! Thank you! Anyone else have this problem? Want to go in and make a bulk order? Let me know! :)bill
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fatjohnz
Commodore Joined: 05 August 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 304 |
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I'm glad I found this post.
I would like to install new primary self tailing winches and I'm having some trouble with sizing. The newest Harken winches are 6" base which seems too big for the 5&1/4" pedestal. Now I'll poke around and see if I can find the B32.2STA which is no longer in production. Bill, was the installation as easy as drilling new holes or did you need to fabricate a backing plate? If I can't find the Harkens, I'll be back to ask if someone has found another winch that fits ;-) Thanks, john |
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Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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John,
The B32.2 was the correct diameter however the bolt hole positions were not. We had to position the new winch so that the holes didn't overlap with the original holes and then bolt it in. Having done this on my boat and others I'm not overly pleased with the Harken B32.2 or the Lewmar 30's They really are a little on the small side. I believe the New radial Harken 40 (I think) should be a much better winch. If I had to do this all over again, I'd use the new harken and rebuild the base some how so that it would fit. Hope this helps. Bill
Edited by Bill Layton - 12 January 2012 at 2:12pm |
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fatjohnz
Commodore Joined: 05 August 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 304 |
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Hi Bill,
I DO appreciate your input. Thank you. After mulling it over, I would rather redrill for the B32 than design a converter plate. That said, I think I got the last pair of B32 in the US. With the B32 becoming unavailable, we'll need a converter plate eventually. john |
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Winner
Commodore Joined: 07 September 2011 Status: Offline Points: 223 |
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Hi all,
Two questions: 1) How do people with experience in this find the solar powered ventilators? My boat does get some mildew accumulation along the vertical surfaces, particularly in crevices etc. I was thinking of installing ideally two ventilators. One aft to draw air in and another forward to blow air out. This would theoretically create a constant draft moving through the cabin. My issues are: a) Unsure whether it's possible to disassemble one of these fans to reverse the airflow direction b) Not particularly wanting to drill a hole on the foredeck to add a ventilation fan and c) Unsure if this system would even work as my polling of boat owners around the marina here with solar ventilators has generated mixed reviews 2) Regarding the winch, I guess I don't have enough experience with my boat yet (only bought it last year) to identify any deficits with the winches but the primary winches I have (which I believe are original) are two speed self tailing Maxwell's. In seeing the discussion above, it appears people have been installing new winches and am unsure if it's because the old ones had problems or if it's just upgrading. 3) One thing I would like to replace are my cabin top clutches. Mine are four sets of two. One has been upgraded to a spinlock while the other three you do not have the ability to pull or winch the line through unless the handle is open. Adding two more would allow me to run my downhaul and topping lift to the cockpit as currently they are operated from the mast. Any experiences or suggestions in this area? |
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Chris
Eclipse #240 Thunder Bay, ON |
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frfletch
Commodore Joined: 13 May 2008 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 365 |
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No real problem with the Maxwell 22's. Two things one might do. 1. Remove the self tailer lead-in (the chrome thing) and use a file or Dremel to remove the sharp edges. If a sheet hangs up on these, they will cut the sheet. From the factory they are sharp as a knife. 2. The teeth on the self tailer become a little worn causing the sheets to slip through them. Remove them, clean them well and sand them just a little, mix up some epoxy with some very small quantity of fine silica sand and paint this on the inside surfaces of the self tailers. They will not slip thereafter. The Maxwells have a nice drum size, and I find nothing wrong with the inside mechanism. My suggested fix is cheap!
I do agree to replace the halyard winches. |
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Winner
Commodore Joined: 07 September 2011 Status: Offline Points: 223 |
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Yes the halyard winches on the cabin top could definitely use upgrading to two speed.
Edited by Winner - 17 July 2012 at 8:01am |
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Chris
Eclipse #240 Thunder Bay, ON |
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frfletch
Commodore Joined: 13 May 2008 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 365 |
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Chris,
I am interested to learn the ways in which you use the halyard winches such that you feel they need to be two-speed. Do you cross-winch and use them to trim the foresail with? We often use them for spinnaker sheet trimming in light to medium air, but mostly only as a sheet guide when the trimmer is standing on the deck to windward to get a better view of the spinnaker luff, but then no one is actually cranking them and they just have one or two wraps on them. In Hong Kong there is a fleet of Impala 28's not that much different from a Laser or Hotfoot and they are all set up to the coach top winches as their primaries. The cockpit crew stands up facing forward, the fore sail sheets are cross winched to the windward side coming from a turning block and then straight across the cockpit and onto the coach top winches. Do you use that method and therefore prefer the two-speed? |
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Winner
Commodore Joined: 07 September 2011 Status: Offline Points: 223 |
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Hi Frank,
Interesting. To answer your question at this point I have not experimented with using the cabin winches for anything other than the sheets and halyard at hand. I haven't tried cross-sheeting nor using them for the spinnaker sheet however my experience with this boat is still quite limited and all of those sound like good ideas. On the C&C 32 I have crewed on for the past 6 years we have experimented with cross-sheeting to the opposite main winch but not the cabin top winch. That boat also has dedicated secondary winches in the cockpit for the spinnaker which of course the Laser 28 does not. The absence of these winches does lend itself to more creative use of the cabin top winches in the L28 for spinnaker flying - I'll need to experiment with this. In terms of one or two speed, perhaps I'm premature in this assumption. On the C&C, one of the cabin top winches is two speed and the other is not. When hoisting the main halyard in heavy air when we want it super tight, the absence of a two speed winch on that side is noticeable as we're having to essentially throw our body weight at it for the last little bit. However with the L28 being smaller, perhaps the absence of a two speed winch on for halyards is less of an issue? Edited by Winner - 17 July 2012 at 10:33am |
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Chris
Eclipse #240 Thunder Bay, ON |
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