Print Page | Close Window

Deck hardware upgrade pics

Printed From: Laser 28 International Class Association
Category: Laser 28 General
Forum Name: Maintenance
Forum Description: All the things to care for your boat
URL: http://www.laser28.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=358
Printed Date: 24 November 2020 at 12:40am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Deck hardware upgrade pics
Posted By: Bill Layton
Subject: Deck hardware upgrade pics
Date Posted: 13 October 2009 at 1:10pm
Here are some pics I took of typical deck hardware upgrades we've done here in Montreal.

Spinnaker Twings setup - notice old clam cleats have been removed

Harken Primary winches - these B32.2 STA winches fit our aluminum support the best and work very well.

Harken traveler - Notice how we've added a low profile track onto the original Schaefer high beam track.... its the least costly traveler upgrade

Spinlock XTS clutches - these clutches actually work on all high modulus line and have zero slippage. Some may deem this overkill, but the new XAS clutches slipped no matter what we did with them.

Solar Powered Ventilator - on the foredeck, this is removable and a deck cap fits in place when racing. This solved the mildew problem we were experiencing in humid Montreal.

Fwd Hatch Webbing - This allows foredeck crew the ability to open the hatch while on deck.... just a piece of webbing hooked onto the latch handles

Lifeline webbing (pic of convictus) with vertical straps, this prevents the straps from opening up and allowing someone to slide out. We have seen this with windward knockdowns going downhill.

http://img385.imageshack.us/i/picture0131.jpg/">
http://img384.imageshack.us/i/picture0121.jpg/">
http://img169.imageshack.us/i/picture0111.jpg/">
http://img62.imageshack.us/i/picture0101h.jpg/">
http://img159.imageshack.us/i/picture0091.jpg/">
http://img387.imageshack.us/i/picture0081.jpg/">
http://img444.imageshack.us/i/picture0072.jpg/">
http://img444.imageshack.us/i/picture0062.jpg/">
http://img384.imageshack.us/i/picture0052o.jpg/">
http://img207.imageshack.us/i/picture0141.jpg/">



Replies:
Posted By: WJRyan
Date Posted: 14 October 2009 at 7:28am
Great pics Bill and thanks! Could you describe your line layout from port to starboard? It would help to understand your clutch layout if you could help me "see" the way you have your lines set up. Thank you!

-------------
Bill Ryan,

Room4Crew, #155


Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 14 October 2009 at 9:55am
These are thumbnail pics , clicking on them will enlarge them so you can read the labels on the starboard side

On the port side starting on the inside and working outboard I have:

Outhaul
Cunningham
Main Hal
Genoa Hal

Andiamo, I assume you can see the pics now?


Posted By: WarBird
Date Posted: 17 October 2009 at 10:53am
Bill,
Which traveller part # did you use. Does it have enough clearance fore and aft is the recess? What is your thought on using track with no drop, i.e. straight?

WarBird


Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 17 October 2009 at 11:56am
This information updated March 15, 2011 to reflect the new harken parts now available.

Harken Traveler system to add onto your existing High Beam track:

R27 1.5Meter Low Beam track
1522 End Stops (pair)
T2732B Car + StandupToggle + control blocks + dead ends for 3:1 system


Harken Traveler System for those of you who want to replace your original High-Beam system:

Track Info:
Vertical Bend: Ends up
Chord Depth: 1-5/8"
Chord Length: 52-5/8"
Length: 53"

Parts:
R27HB 1.5Meter Track (High Beam Track)
T2732B Car + StandupToggle + control blocks + dead ends for 3:1 system
1523 (pair) End stops
1530 Simple Bend for Track


Note: Tracks above come at 1.5 meter lengths but will need to be cut to fit the cockpit width. Harken will cut this for you for an additional fee, but it's just as easy with a hacksaw.

Traveler Cars  http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=4501&taxid=478 
Track Information  http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?id=5217&taxid=480 
  




Posted By: khardy
Date Posted: 19 October 2009 at 12:59pm
Thanks Bill. Glad we can finally post pictures. Did you upgrade your vang?

Warbird - I have a straight track. If you search posts for "traveler" you'll find my post describing what I did.


Posted By: lifar
Date Posted: 14 April 2010 at 4:57pm

Bill,

what is the brand  name for the solar vent ? and is it difficult to install?
Thanks


Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 14 April 2010 at 5:16pm
Nicro Fico ventilators, now owned by Marinco used to sell a 3 or 4 inch removable solar powered vent that works great (popped right out for racing and a plastic plate just snapped in)... but they do not sell this model any longer. They only sell permanently mounted models I believe.

http://www.marinco.com/brand/nicro

You might be able to find this model still in some stores, like defender industries. Also someone mentioned that possibly plastimo might make some interesting ventilators, but I have yet looked into them. Hope this helps

Bill



Posted By: lifar
Date Posted: 17 April 2010 at 11:58pm
Thank you Bill, I found one in West marine store in Toronto.  It is fixed, not removable.
Any idea where I can find a fuel tank, mine has a bit leakage at the lower corner of the tank and has caused major disel odor in the boat which made me to clean up the whole boat but the smell is still there.
Thanks again,
 
Farzad


Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 18 April 2010 at 10:32am
You won't find a custom built tank for the L28 like you have now. The best solution is to remove it and have it repaired properly (re welded) since its dimensions are unique to where it's mounted in the Laser. Its an aluminum tank, they do not corrode, so re welding always solves the leaks. FYI, I've only heard of one other person having this problem with their tank.

Also note that any fuel spillage even from the engine compartment ends up in the front lower corner where the seacock is.... be sure its a tank problem before you pull it

cheers


Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 20 April 2010 at 11:09pm
Click on any of these pics to see a larger image

Here is the original base with a bent base plate and 90 degree bracket broken at the plate and the vertical tube bent away from the plate (the typical failure we all see)
http://img441.imageshack.us/i/l28stanchionbases005.jpg/">
http://img707.imageshack.us/i/l28stanchionbases003.jpg/">

Here is an original stanchion base modified. It worked well never got bent again regardless on how hard it was used by the crew on the rail
http://img13.imageshack.us/i/l28stanchionbases004.jpg/">

Here is the final base I had built that worked well, notice the vertical tube was punch press flared into the plate like the original and welded underneath, with the additional support bars on top. I had 6 of these built for my boat 20 years ago and they are still good.
http://img153.imageshack.us/i/l28stanchionbases006.jpg/">

http://img217.imageshack.us/i/l28stanchionbases002.jpg/">

http://img217.imageshack.us/i/l28stanchionbases001.jpg/">

Stainless Outfitters located in Barrie Ontario, Canada. Is a supplier of these bases and builds pulpits and sternrails as well.
http://www.stainlessoutfitters.com - http://www.stainlessoutfitters.com 1-800-268-0395 

Page 6 of this link shows the L28 modified base 
http://stainlessoutfitters.com/lifeline/lifeline/lifeline.html - http://stainlessoutfitters.com/lifeline/lifeline/lifeline.html

Alternatively you can send this link to any stainless shop along with your damaged stanchion base and they should be able to repair/modify or replace them.


Posted By: WJRyan
Date Posted: 21 April 2010 at 7:47am
You rock Bill! Thank you! Anyone else have this problem? Want to go in and make a bulk order? Let me know! :)bill


Posted By: fatjohnz
Date Posted: 12 January 2012 at 12:49pm
I'm glad I found this post.
I would like to install new primary self tailing winches and I'm having some trouble with sizing.
The newest Harken winches are 6" base which seems too big for the 5&1/4" pedestal. Now I'll poke around and see if I can find the B32.2STA which is no longer in production.
Bill, was the installation as easy as drilling new holes or did you need to fabricate a backing plate?
If I can't find the Harkens, I'll be back to ask if someone has found another winch that fits ;-)
Thanks, john


Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 12 January 2012 at 2:11pm
John,

The B32.2 was the correct diameter however the bolt hole positions were not. We had to position the new winch so that the holes didn't overlap with the original holes and then bolt it in. Having done this on my boat and others I'm not overly pleased with the Harken B32.2 or the Lewmar 30's They really are a little on the small side. I believe the New radial Harken 40 (I think) should be a much better winch.  If I had to do this all over again, I'd use the new harken and rebuild the base some how so that it would fit. Hope this helps. Bill


Posted By: fatjohnz
Date Posted: 12 January 2012 at 9:11pm
Hi Bill,
I DO appreciate your input. Thank you.
After mulling it over, I would rather redrill for the B32 than design a converter plate. That said, I think I got the last pair of B32 in the US. With the B32 becoming unavailable, we'll need a converter plate eventually. john


Posted By: Winner
Date Posted: 16 July 2012 at 10:26pm
Hi all,

Two questions:

1) How do people with experience in this find the solar powered ventilators?  My boat does get some mildew accumulation along the vertical surfaces, particularly in crevices etc. I was thinking of installing ideally two ventilators.  One aft to draw air in and another forward to blow air out.  This would theoretically create a constant draft moving through the cabin.  My issues are: a) Unsure whether it's possible to disassemble one of these fans to reverse the airflow direction b) Not particularly wanting to drill a hole on the foredeck to add a ventilation fan and c) Unsure if this system would even work as my polling of boat owners around the marina here with solar ventilators has generated mixed reviews

2) Regarding the winch, I guess I don't have enough experience with my boat yet (only bought it last year) to identify any deficits with the winches but the primary winches I have (which I believe are original) are two speed self tailing Maxwell's.  In seeing the discussion above, it appears people have been installing new winches and am unsure if it's because the old ones had problems or if it's just upgrading. 

3) One thing I would like to replace are my cabin top clutches.  Mine are four sets of two.  One has been upgraded to a spinlock while the other three you do not have the ability to pull or winch the line through unless the handle is open.  Adding two more would allow me to run my downhaul and topping lift to the cockpit as currently they are operated from the mast.  Any experiences or suggestions in this area?


-------------
Chris
Eclipse #240
Thunder Bay, ON


Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 16 July 2012 at 11:19pm
No real problem with the Maxwell 22's. Two things one might do. 1. Remove the self tailer lead-in (the chrome thing) and use a file or Dremel to remove the sharp edges. If a sheet hangs up on these, they will cut the sheet. From the factory they are sharp as a knife. 2. The teeth on the self tailer become a little worn causing the sheets to slip through them. Remove them, clean them well and sand them just a little, mix up some epoxy with some very small quantity of fine silica sand and paint this on the inside surfaces of the self tailers. They will not slip thereafter. The Maxwells have a nice drum size, and I find nothing wrong with the inside mechanism. My suggested fix is cheap!

I do agree to replace the halyard winches.



Posted By: Winner
Date Posted: 17 July 2012 at 7:29am
Yes the halyard winches on the cabin top could definitely use upgrading to two speed.

-------------
Chris
Eclipse #240
Thunder Bay, ON


Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 17 July 2012 at 9:49am
Chris,
I am interested to learn the ways in which you use the halyard winches such that you feel they need to be two-speed. Do you cross-winch and use them to trim the foresail with? We often use them for spinnaker sheet trimming in light to medium air, but mostly only as a sheet guide when the trimmer is standing on the deck to windward to get a better view of the spinnaker luff, but then no one is actually cranking them and they just have one or two wraps on them. In Hong Kong there is a fleet of Impala 28's not that much different from a Laser or Hotfoot and they are all set up to the coach top winches as their primaries. The cockpit crew stands up facing forward, the fore sail sheets are cross winched to the windward side coming from a turning block and then straight across the cockpit and onto the coach top winches. Do you use that method and therefore prefer the two-speed?


Posted By: Winner
Date Posted: 17 July 2012 at 10:03am
Hi Frank,

Interesting.  To answer your question at this point I have not experimented with using the cabin winches for anything other than the sheets and halyard at hand.  I haven't tried cross-sheeting nor using them for the spinnaker sheet however my experience with this boat is still quite limited and all of those sound like good ideas.

On the C&C 32 I have crewed on for the past 6 years we have experimented with cross-sheeting to the opposite main winch but not the cabin top winch.  That boat also has dedicated secondary winches in the cockpit for the spinnaker which of course the Laser 28 does not.  The absence of these winches does lend itself to more creative use of the cabin top winches in the L28 for spinnaker flying - I'll need to experiment with this.

In terms of one or two speed, perhaps I'm premature in this assumption.  On the C&C, one of the cabin top winches is two speed and the other is not.  When hoisting the main halyard in heavy air when we want it super tight, the absence of a two speed winch on that side is noticeable as we're having to essentially throw our body weight at it for the last little bit.  However with the L28 being smaller, perhaps the absence of a two speed winch on for halyards is less of an issue?


-------------
Chris
Eclipse #240
Thunder Bay, ON


Posted By: bal149
Date Posted: 20 July 2012 at 7:46pm
to question 1 (of 3)-Solar vent gave up the ghost 2 weeks ago and the boat smells bad-so yes it does work- will have to buy another...


Posted By: Winner
Date Posted: 22 July 2012 at 11:34pm
In this forum Bill previously (and correctly) mentioned that Nicro no longer manufactures their removable solar powered vent (the 2000 model) and instead now only have the permanently fixed Day/Night Plus model.

Wanting some odor and mildew control I'd like to get one of these vents but with racing, having a vent on the foredeck isn't an option; it'll get crushed underfoot eventually for sure.

So for those who are interested, I found an eBay seller who has a stock of 2000  series vents for $70 USD a piece.  Note however that they are OEM so don't come in the nice retail packaging.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120825504508?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

The seller only ships to the USA.  I live near the US border and can have it shipped there, then drive down to pick it up.  If anyone is interested I can order one for you, just send me a private message.


-------------
Chris
Eclipse #240
Thunder Bay, ON


Posted By: John Mills
Date Posted: 26 March 2016 at 7:34pm
Bill , any chance you can re-post the Pictures? They expired and I am about to add lower tracks and tweakers to my boat . It is still as per factory . Thanks in advance 

-------------
Unplugged
# 164
NOTL


Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 30 March 2016 at 8:21pm
Sorry John I had posted them on imageshack and I didn't realize they went to a pay site and they've tossed my pics and I don't have copies. 



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2015 Web Wiz Ltd. - http://www.webwiz.co.uk