Laser 28 International Class Association Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > Laser 28 General > Maintenance
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Hull Joint Rub Rail
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Hull Joint Rub Rail

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123>
Author
Message Reverse Sort Order
Ron Waterson View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: 21 October 2014
Location: Rivals, KY
Status: Offline
Points: 85
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Hull Joint Rub Rail
    Posted: 08 August 2020 at 9:51pm
Hey Bill,

Link to Wefco profiles below, including 2770 which is what is on my boat.  Have a look at CQ marina if you like.  I wasn't impressed with the way mine was put on.  Messy job with 5200, but I think the rub rail was fine.  I'm pretty sure I have a left over piece if you need to see it.
Hull 147 - Angel's Share
Back to Top
WJRyan View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 12 February 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Status: Offline
Points: 205
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 August 2020 at 5:26pm
Just curious if anyone has used a different solution other than the 2770 section from Wefco Rubber. If so let me know who and how it worked for you.
Bill Ryan,

Room4Crew, #155
Back to Top
WJRyan View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 12 February 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Status: Offline
Points: 205
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2015 at 8:31pm
And if anyone is looking for toe rails I have 3 available!  No rub rail alas....
Bill Ryan,

Room4Crew, #155
Back to Top
Bill Layton View Drop Down
Admin Group
Admin Group
Avatar

Joined: 15 September 2002
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 551
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 October 2015 at 12:00am
David, just cut out the bad part and heat up the remaining rubrail and it'll stretch easily to the original length. Good luck!
Back to Top
Ron Waterson View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: 21 October 2014
Location: Rivals, KY
Status: Offline
Points: 85
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 October 2015 at 9:21pm
Sorry Dave.  I just did mine, but I did not have the foresight to save it for another purpose.  Wish I had now.

 Ron
Hull 147 - Angel's Share
Back to Top
David DeBoy View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 07 August 2003
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 4
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote David DeBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 October 2015 at 7:14pm
Hello All,
Has anyone saved their removed original hull joint rub rail? I'm looking to patch in only a short section of my gray rub rail. Patch does not warrant replacing all of it.
I would gladly purchase this from you and arrange shipping. Please help me out if you can.
Thanks,
Dave
Back to Top
frfletch View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 13 May 2008
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 361
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 April 2015 at 3:58pm
I think two tubes should do it. I want to emphasize the idea of spending spending time to try to equalize the flange distance from hull. The flange varies a lot. In some places near the back on Voila it was very small, and nearer the front quarter it stuck out quite a bit. The problem with mounting the rail comes mostly from where the flange does not protrude sufficiently. The Wefco rail is configured on the inside to sort of grab the flange, but if the bottom sides of the rail hit the hull before the rail goes all the way down so that the flange fits nicely inside that grabbing bit, then you will have to flood the thing with sealant in an attempt to try to make it grade.

My recommendation then would be to take the old rail off and really clean up the flange. Take a section of the new Wefco rail (say a 6" piece), and try it first where the flange sticks out sufficiently to see how the new rail fits on that flange. Then try it on a portion of the flange that may not stick out sufficiently. You will immediately get a grip of the issue. In those areas you should build out the flange a bit. This could be done with a strip of stiff polyethylene sheeting cut to width, and clamped or screwed from the bottom onto the flange, and then filling the top with a glass-fill epoxy. After that sets, remove the polyethylene and use a sanding block or random orbital to square-up the outside of the flange. Alternatively, One could use a strip of 1/4" ply, or similar, and some cut strips of waxed paper to fit on top of it and be clamped between the flange and the ply, then epoxy on top of that.

If you don't do the above, you will have to trim the rail in those places so that the flange can fit into the grabbing portion on the inside. That varies the look of the rail and is a pain in the butt. However that is what I did because I started the process without awareness of what the problems were going to be with the localized areas of a lessor flange and to keep the project moving just used the drum sander on a dremel to trim the rail and move on.
Back to Top
fatjohnz View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 05 August 2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 270
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 April 2015 at 3:28pm
I'm not a fan of 5200; I've been using BoatLIFE Life-Calk (although I have had to do some touch-ups)
My memory is that one tube will do most of one side. Then a 3rd tube is needed to finish the sides and the back.
sj
Back to Top
Mad Max View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: 18 June 2010
Location: Buffalo NY
Status: Offline
Points: 52
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mad Max Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 April 2015 at 3:12pm
Frank

Here is a  memory test.  I just ordered the 2770 extrusion from Wefco. My question is do you remember how many tubes of 3M 5200 it took to install the new Hull joint rub rail.
Dick #122
Back to Top
Guests View Drop Down
Guest
Guest
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 October 2014 at 9:27am
I also used the same cross-section from Wefco. Works well - I agree with Frank's comments on installation - a little planning reduces a lot of grief!
Back to Top
Ron Waterson View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: 21 October 2014
Location: Rivals, KY
Status: Offline
Points: 85
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 October 2014 at 8:55am
Great info.  If two of you have used the 2770 and it worked, I'll go with that.  Of course, now I have to work up the time and courage to take on the project.  On my Laser, it's visibly obvious moisture is being trapped in the joint by the old rub rail.  That leads to a consistent mold ring growing around the interior of the joint.  I would really like to end that.

Thanks,

  Ron
Hull 147 - Angel's Share
Back to Top
frfletch View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 13 May 2008
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 361
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 October 2014 at 1:00am
Ron,
As you know I used the section 2770. It has worked very well, and no I never looked at the 0411G. The 2770 may look a little wimpy in the Wefco website sketches, but it is actually very close to the original once it is spread out and on the boat. Also, one will find places on the flange joint where the flange is substantially less deep. This creates a problem because the new rub rail can't be well seated onto the flange and won't bond well. I pre-fit the entire rail before gluing and used a small sanding drum on a Dremmel to trim the inside lip of the rubber so that it would come all the way on to its final seating place so the sealant/adhesive could do its job.

Mine continues to work well. About every two years I wipe it down with some paint thinner and then coat it with Armourall, the tire dressing compound. This helps preserve the rubber against UV deterioration.

Also, in the article I posted, I spoke of using 3M 4200. I would now definitely use 5200. Also, I would use some tiny little #6 stainless counter-sinking wood screws screwed directly in the middle of the rail into the edge of the flange to locate and hold the rubber in place. You may elect to remove them after the 5200 sets, or you may leave them it. They are not noticeable.

I may have mentioned in the article that if I were doing it again I would take the time to build out the flange where it protrudes from the hull less than the average so that I did not have to trim the rail. The trimming is not noticeable to the eye, but it is inconvenient. The bond is reliant upon the rubber extrusion being set all the way home. That is because the staples and pop rivets that hold the flange together stick out quite a bit particularly on the bottom. This prevents the bottom flap from lying tight to the flange, so the adhesive in there (on the sides) does not make full contact with the flange as those protrusions hold it out. That means that you are much relying on the center interior of the rail for bonding to the outer lip of the flange. I think the heavy 0411G section would be very difficult to work with to get the result that will make you happy.

I have some extra of the 2770 section. I could cut off a sample piece and send it to you for you to touch and feel. Somewhere I think I provided a photo of the original flange section directly next to the 2770.

Some time after I did the project, Bill Layton did much research for suitable section to replace the rail on a boat that had been re-built after the trailer broke loose from the tow truck, and he ended up also using the 2770 section.

Good Luck with it. It certainly serves to "pick-up" the overall appearance of the boat.
Back to Top
Ron Waterson View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie


Joined: 21 October 2014
Location: Rivals, KY
Status: Offline
Points: 85
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron Waterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2014 at 10:27pm
frfletch,

I may take on the rub rail project this winter.

Now that you have had your replacement rub rails for few years, how do you like them?  Would you have done anything different?  I've been researching WEFCO rails...I keep looking at profile 0411 G (4th page down-lower left corner) as a larger replacement rail possibility.  Did you consider that rail and decide against for any reason? 

Thanks,

   Ron
Hull 147 - Angel's Share
Back to Top
Chris Ross View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: 16 November 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 70
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris Ross Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 September 2011 at 2:02pm
It looks like wood to me.
Back to Top
frfletch View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 13 May 2008
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 361
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 September 2011 at 1:19pm
She is pretty, but I can't tell what the rub rail solution was. Do you think he just painted the original PVC rail?
Back to Top
Chris Ross View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: 16 November 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 70
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris Ross Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 September 2011 at 6:42pm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ensignyachts/5940341015/in/photostream/

Damn is she pretty!
Back to Top
Chris Ross View Drop Down
Groupie
Groupie
Avatar

Joined: 16 November 2005
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 70
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris Ross Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 September 2011 at 6:30pm
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ensignyachts/5962164635/in/photostream/

check out this interesting rub rail solution.
Back to Top
frfletch View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 13 May 2008
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 361
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 October 2009 at 12:16pm
With Bill's help, I'm trying herein to post some pics of my recent rub rail mitering, etc. There is also a photo of the hull flange in on of the areas where it is less than 24mm from the hull.














Edited by Bill Layton - 14 October 2009 at 12:21pm
Back to Top
fatjohnz View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 05 August 2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 270
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 October 2009 at 6:40am
Thanks frfletch, I find that Sauza Hornitos works very well. You can mail me at jstephenson at hvc.rr.com
Back to Top
frfletch View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: 13 May 2008
Location: Canada
Status: Offline
Points: 361
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 October 2009 at 1:35am
I ordered 70' and have 16 1/2' left over. I never actually measured the length they sent me. Regarding section size, the Laser rail is the very small and it is difficult enough finding anything that small yet with a mouth large enough to snap over the flange. If I can find your email address, I will send you a comparison photo of the old rail and new rail sections side-by-side. They are very similar.

Anyone you ask regarding sealant/adhesive will advise you to go straight to 5200. I used 4800 because it is cold here. It flurried all day today, and 4800 cures in 24 hours whereas 5200 cures in 7 days. The 4800 cleans up okay using Goof Off, but not as easily as Sikaflex 921, but then again that is a 72 hours material. It is best to work clean. I only had to spot clean the boat sides and rail in a couple of places, and this is usually owing to allowing the outside of the nozzle to get dirty, or having an unsteady hand when sticking the nozzle inside the rail while holding it from the end of a caulking gun. You are up on a ladder, holding the rail in one hand and trying to hold the mouth open, and then sticking the nozzle inside the mouth which is quite small. Perhaps a shot of Tequila may have been good just to steady things a little.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 11.03
Copyright ©2001-2015 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.188 seconds.