Bukh DV-8 vs DV-10

I presume that the DV-10 is just a larger cylinder bore and piston. The DV-8 in my Laser had a head failure and I replaced it with a DV-10. Everything seems interchangeable.
The DV-10 seems to have a little more kick and is able to push the boat to speed at a slightly lower RPM... or I could be imagining things... or my DV-8 was just giving up the ghost and had to work harder.
John

Wow, that's interesting Bill.

Thats a pretty rare part... either Keith Strutt or Bukh would have it. Or possibly a CAV shop who rebuilds injection pumps and injectors. It's a rather specialized part since it has a bleed screw on it as well.

Edited by Bill Layton - 24 March 2017 at 9:29am

It all started when the head failed; and then ....

Glad to hear the old engine lives to fight another day . Never understood why Bukh or anyone  had a raw water cooled engine given most are  in salt water .  We are fresh water here lucky for us  . 

Back to the original topic. I have the DV8 which is to replace my old DV10. Bill says above that the difference is just a fuel setting. Can I adjust that setting to make my engine a DV10? I have a DV8 workshop manual which provides instructions on how to do it "if the factory testing bench is not avilable". But the manual only provides settings for the DV8.

Hi, Bill stated in his March 22 post, "All DV8's and DV10's installed in Laser 28's were adjusted to 10 HP at the BUKH factory..."
I assume from your question that the DV8 in question was not from a Laser?
Just checking, john

Get me the serial # and I may be able to tell you what it was adjusted for.

Are you operating in salt water? If so I higher recommend installing a heat exchanger   I have heard of people flushing with diluted acid lr vinegar this may clean up the thermostat but I don't think it it will resolve rust. You could try it on some other rusty piece of dteel in a bucket OT glsss container.

I had the heat exchanger built by San Juan engineering in Bellingham, WA. I have done two conversions and the last one they charged me about US$380 for it. I kept the original Johnsen Pump to circulate the sea water and on the first project, Voila,I purchased an Oberdorfer centrifugal pump to circulate the anti-freee coolant. On the 2nd project for Warbird, I used a Johnsen impeller pump that had the same impeller as the original on the Buhk. These were both pedestal-type pumps mounted onto a bracket I cut from 3 x 3 x 3/16" aluminum angle bolted to the port side of the engine where one will conveniently find about 6 female bosses with 8mm threads that work perfect for mounting the bracket. The pump its bolted to the bracket by two 8mm bolts. The newly added pump is driven by a small belt from a pulley I attached to the top of the flywheel. Just remove the flywheel nut, stick the pulley on, and tighten the nut. I machined that myself so that the flywheel nut sat down inside the pulley hub with sufficient space to get a socket onto the flywheel nut. I then machined a standard pulley to fit onto the new pumps. On the first conversion I used an A section belt, but I found an L section for Warbird's conversion that is such smaller and runs much smoother. These pumps draw about 1/32hp, so one does not need much. I have been running mine since about 2010 with zero issues and I'm comfortable to know that my engine is not being slowly eaten away, particularly he cast iron head. BTW, both secondary pumps were found on Ebay,new for about $35.00, belt is about $5.00, so it is a cheap conversion. I think photos of it are still on the forum somewhere if you look back into the history.