Hull fairing around saildrive

Follow up: Tried using 4200 to patch down the loose part and see if it would last the season and it did not.  Peeling off again.

The original seal is glued on by a Bostik product that is no longer available here in north america  (A3) - European boats can still get it but it is not safe to air ship so we can't . Crinmar used to supply it with a new seal . Bostik themselves recommended a replacement product called 1685MC which I used this year . It is an industrial contact cement product used to glue on mop heads - very waterproof .  I will let you know how it held up when I pull the boat on Monday but it was still on solid when I dove on the boat at Can Am .  Still have some left if you are anywhere near Niagara Falls . 

Edited by John Mills - 24 September 2016 at 3:08pm

I installed a new saildrive membrane before launch in 2014, using the guidelines posted here and I thought I did a very good and thorough job.  Nonetheless, mine is peeling off again after only three seasons, implying I did it wrong although I find that hard to believe.  I was very particular.

Chris, I guess you did not read my previous post..

Frank when you modified Voila did you suffer a PHRF rating hit?

Here's our rating chairperson's answer.  Note that different clubs may take a different position.

After consideration, I'm going to try re-gluing the original rubber membrane.  After haul out the membrane was still attached but I was able to peel it off easily by hand.

The original glue used from BUHK is some form of waterproof contact cement. I've installed dozens of these rubbers and they glue so well they are virtually impossible to remove without tearing the rubber apart into pieces. However when I install a rubber, I sand the rubber surface and hull surface well and coat both sides with glue and let it dry tack free before I push the rubber into place. Then I use a roller to roll out the rubber as hard as I can push on it. This is the typical method used when using contact cement. I see many owners suffering the same problem as you folks but it's clear your missing one of these steps. I've never ever been able to remove a rubber I installed without the help of a heat gun (which one must be very careful using) When I hear stories of how the corner didn't stay glued etc I'm certain the standard protocol for using contact cement hasn't been followed. Most rubbers installed at the factory lasted 15 years or more and they only got replace because the rubber cracked around the leg... it did not become unglued. 

Edited by Bill Layton - 18 October 2016 at 7:26pm

Actually it's not too cold to apply this. I've done it at Zero Celsius a few times without problems. 

when I did WarBird #169 back in 02 or 03 it was part of a complete bottom job. VC Tar off, Interprotect 2000 on. Boat prep is part psychology. The other guy gets worried when he see all the time and effort YOU put into your boat. Fairing and filling and longboarding as the competitors walk by in the yard get them wondering. My saildrive gasket was sh*t but the previous owner had a new one and the bukh glue in the parts kit. I put a 45 degree bevel around the perimeter of the gasket perhaps more for the "wow" factor than actual flow in that area of the hull. I think I did that carefully on a belt sander feeding it carefullly by hand. When we had 5 L28s racing, WarBird was always at or near the front.