What the winners use??

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   Hi Seawolf, My opinion would be to set the forestay length at 9.932m pin to pin as you've done. Set the shrouds as you've done and look at the rake and pre-bend.

Obviously you're setting it for medium conditions. The backstay adjustment will depend on how your backstay is built so you can't really go on that. We need really to put more pull into ours but I'm too frightened of the 1986 mast and will flog the main when overpowered.

Have a look at this image for the amount of "banana" we use:

http://farroutlaser28.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/mast-rake.html

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jez rees Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rookie Joined: 25 June 2008 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 43	Post Options Post Reply Quote jez rees Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 June 2013 at 3:35am
	Hi Seawolf, My opinion would be to set the forestay length at 9.932m pin to pin as you've done. Set the shrouds as you've done and look at the rake and pre-bend. Obviously you're setting it for medium conditions. The backstay adjustment will depend on how your backstay is built so you can't really go on that. We need really to put more pull into ours but I'm too frightened of the 1986 mast and will flog the main when overpowered. Have a look at this image for the amount of "banana" we use: http://farroutlaser28.blogspot.co.uk/2013/06/mast-rake.html

fatjohnz Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commodore Joined: 05 August 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 304	Post Options Post Reply Quote fatjohnz Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 June 2013 at 8:15am
	There is a bit of black-art to mast bend as well. I took my crew thru a tuning session on Saturday. I use the Doyle quick tune guide to set the rig to a base setting http://www.doylesails.com/downloads/DoyleLaser28QuickTune.pdf Then we went sailing with the lapper. Adjusted the jib (cars and sheet tension) till the shape on the leading edge of the jib looked similar top to bottom and telltales breaking roughly together. Leech trimmed inside the end of the spreaders, etc. Then we trimmed the main to the centerline, no backstay, with mainsheet tensioned till the top streamer just starts to flutter. Then stand on the bow and look back at the slot between the jib leech and main belly outline. They should compliment each other. You can fool with the sail controls a bit to see the slot shapes changing. In my case, the top 1/4 of the main had a little bag to it and the leech of the jib was quite straight in that area. Pulling on the backstay made it worse; so I concluded that the mast had a little too much prebend and tightened the lowers 3/4s on each side. So my point is that there is a lot of good advise on rig tension but every sail is a little different in how it trims due to age, stretch, cut. js

Seawolf Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commodore Joined: 15 March 2012 Location: missoula Status: Offline Points: 118	Post Options Post Reply Quote Seawolf Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 27 June 2013 at 8:31am
	Oh yes, we have rake. You can find our boat on the dock by just looking for the "banana" rig. This weekend I will back off the forestay another 1 1/2 inch to achieve the magical number 32 feet, 6 3/8 inch. But I am still concerned the back stay cascade will only have about 16" of adjustments. I just had the cascade replaced with amsteel, so I could send the cascade back to the shop to have one of it's line shortened. Also still looking for an answer on how much slack in my head stay. I have adjusted so that it's "snug" right now, but after reading these post I see that I need to back it off a little and it will give the head sail more power.