water in the oil?

thanks, for the clarification. PS I ran a tap through the hole and "revived"  the threads. So the the drain plug has some more bite in the hole, however I am going to dab a little jb weld to make it a sure thing. I really don't want to re do it upside down on a pitching boat.

Thanks for the tips, all are very useful.

I should clarify, there is plenty of thread for the head. The Piston and the rings all went in smoothly. Inserting the six mounting bolts took a little leverage to line up the engine mounts. But when it was all done, the cylinder is still a 1/8 to 1/4 inch fom the motor. The piston moves through the cylinder smottly. Tomorrow I will take another look around the cylinder and mayby try a rubber mallet to pursuade it.

Progress Update;

 

The cylinder is on and the head is on and torqued, now it’s time to use feeler gauges to check for value clearance. Another 1^st for me. The workshop manual calls for .20mm on the inlet (starboard) and .25mm on the exhaust (port). There is also in handwriting next to these measurements of .050 and .065 I assume these are in thousandths. But being that they are handwritten I don’t trust these numbers.  Here are the question; I have these feeler gauges with the following numbers;

 

.010

0,25

mm

 

Ok – so which is the metric number?

 

The rest I am good to go on, lightly oil the gauge, no tension on the spring of the value, measure the space between the rocker arm and the value, adjust the nut.

 

One more nagging thought, the workshop manual states that the pushrod closest to the cylinder is the intake, the furthest one is the exhaust. I was told after that is set, then the rods will lie side by side with the intake pushrod being on the starboard (or the air filter side) and the exhaust pushrod being on the port side or the exhaust elbow side.  However when I referred to the parts diagram to see how the rest of the parts come together, I noticed that the diagram has the pushrods side by side in the opposite configuration. Please validate this so I can sleep tonight…….

The smaller values in all cases you reference are the inch equivalent to the metric.

OK - I am all good. The pushrods are aligned, the values are adjusted and everything is back together without any extra bolts or nuts to show for it. Filled up the oil, primed the fuel and water pumps and tomorrow we will see if she fires up. Then it will be 3 -5 oil changes to get the mositure out of the crank case.

OK -- Just so I am clear you are reffering to thousandths not mm. which means I will use the .020 / 0,51mm for intake and  .025 / 0,64 for exhaust. This will more than double my current clearance. Is there an indication that the values are too loose? I thought id you heard a ticking sound that was a clue you were to loose.

First of all, thanks to all that have helped me through this process, you have kept me on track and minimized the anxiety of learning to be a diesel mechanic!

 

Everything is back together, values re-adjusted to Bill Layton’s specs, bled the fuel system and she fired right up Other than a dabble of water from the drain plug on the cylinder, all the fuel and water connections are good. Six oil changes later I now have some good looking oil. Some lessons along the way, if you are using a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit for the water supply (I am on a trailer) then be sure to pull the water intake line out of the bucket before you go to lunch, it turns out the water will keep on siphoning and fill up the exhaust muffler and back into your exhaust port. Which case it made quite a mess when I started the motor after lunch. Also don’t overfill the oil, again another mess.

 

Now that I have good looking oil I wanted to run the motor for a longer period of time, at least 10-15 minutes. Not trusting my alarm system I kept an eye on the exhaust (I noticed that the water and exhaust never heated up, it was always cool water) and the water pump not having any leaks. I also monitored the cylinder to see if it became too hot to touch. Along the way I was lead to believe that you should always be able to place a hand on the cylinder with it never being too hot to touch. Well, after 5 minutes it became hot enough where I could not keep my hand on it for more than 15-20 seconds. So I shut the engine down and let it cool off.

 

I have since pulled all the water hoses to check for blockage, which I had none. And then I pulled the thermostat and checked it on the stove top for functionality. It opened up at 60 degrees. So those two options have been eliminated. Any other thoughts?  

I think you are a STAR for having delved into your engine with the limited mechanical experience you have. Everything you did was quite intelligently done, and all of it in a very difficult space to work in. Congratulations!

The thermostat is factory set at 130f. This is quite cool in that the engine would run more efficiently if it ran hotter. However, since it uses raw water for cooling, a higher temp would encourage the development of mineral deposits within the cooling ports, so the lower temp setting is used to prevent this. However, even 130f is quite warm to the touch, and then the exhaust is a very hot product of the combustion (or diesel explosion) process and is combined on the exhaust side of the head before exit, so the temperature on the head, is going to be quite warm to the touch. From what you say, yours seems right.

Now go sailing!

yes. 70c is 158f, about the same as your domestic hot water temp which is a little hot to leave your hand in.