water in the oil?

The surface looks fine, some light cleaning with a nylon brush to clean the remnants of the head gasket, but I see no pitting or discoloration.

 

The gasket materiel I mention was the head gasket. There was significant amount flakes of it in the lower port side of the block. Not sure what to call it (water jacket?) but these are the ports that circle the big single cylinder which water would flow around to keep the big piston cool.  Other than using a small tool, is there a better way of clearing these out, air compressor?

 

The carbon I am referring to is where the exhaust elbow connects to the cylinder head.

 

The area where the thermostat housing sits looks ok, I put a new seal on the bottom of the housing, but I was still getting some leakage around the base of the housing. Unbolted it, rebolted it and I think it resolve the problem. Looking down into the cylinder head where the housing sits there is rust, but nothing that is flaking off. Last month, I pulled the housing and gave it and the thermostat a vinegar bath, checked the thermostat function and checked all the hoses including the hose and nipple off the lowest point of the cylinder head. All were clear and maybe a teaspoon of rusty sediment accumulated in the nipple of the bottom hose, but not enough to restrict flow.

 

Last month I asked about the exhaust elbow, the old one which I replaced had several cracks in it. I was worried it may have been due to overheating, and this may tie in with the other observations I made; loose head gasket material in the cooling ports on the cylinder block, gear oil blowing out that same area and the exhaust value leaking water around it’s spring. So maybe this is the area where the gasket failed.

 

The idea of the cracked cylinder head is a concern because it’s a 2100.00 part. Makes one lose a little sleep over it…..

 

Email address is mark@powwowcountry.com

 

Thanks

This may sound blunt but did you use a metal straight edge like a ruler and run it over the cleaned surface of the head and the cleaned surface of the cylinder. We call these areas the deck. They must be flat with no concavities. To prepare those surfaces for a straight edge one must sand those surfaces with emery paper to get all the buildup and carbon off first. Warpage is very hard to see, so have a bright light on the other side of the ruler helps.

It a little shocking to see that much rust from fresh water operation. Now you can easily see how these flakes can plug the 1/4" hole on the nipple located on the exhaust elbow when the cooling water returns to the exhaust. That is why I suggest a filter just before the exhaust elbow. It is so easy to install. One hack saw cut, filter and two hose clamps...done!

If the rings are moving, I would not pull them out. Just spray it all with some WD-40 all around those rings for now so that the rust does not build while exposed. That rust will go away when the engine starts running again. It is only there because of the vapor that was getting in there owing to the cracked head. The 2mm gap they refer too is where the ends of the ring come together.......almost come together. When the rings are compressed back into the cylinder, that gap is reduced to almost nothing and when replacing with new rings, if you don't have that 2mm gap, the ring ends will come together before the ring's circumference is reduced sufficiently to fit into the cylinder bore. In that case, those ends are carefully filed a bit to get the 2mm. If the old rings are to be re used you don't have to worry about this. Just try to keep the rings in the same position as when you pulled the cylinder off and try not to rotate them when you put the cylinder back on. The reason is that the rings and cylinder walls have worn to a perfect fit with each other through engine use. They are perfectly matched in their existing position. They cannot re mate properly with each other from further use unless the walls are honed and you are not planning on that which would also require new rings, etc. Keep it simple and keep the rings just as they were in their grooves.

My advice to keep the push rods in the same position as they came out may be overkill, but when we did not know that you were going to install a new head, it would have assured no change to the valve clearance in the lifted position, which is critical. Since you are going with a new head, you are going to have to go through that exercise anyway. You will need a feeler gauge. Get a cheap one because as I remember you may have to bend the last 1/2" of the correct tabs on the gauge to clear the face where the valve cover fits in order to make the measurement. You will see what I mean when you get there.

Frank/Bill: I'm doing some work on my engine at the present time (nothing as extensive as this fortunately but I did have to replace my muffler) and have two questions:

1) What is the best process to ensure I don't have any gunk or metal flakes etc in my water cooling lines?  I've just replaced the cooling water drain hose and the cooling water outlet hose so those are fine.  Are there any other critical areas I should check?
2) Can you elaborate on the "filter before the exhaust elbow" comment you made above? I'm assuming you're talking about the point where the drain hose attaches the the 90 degree bend and goes into the exhaust pipe?  Where can I find such a filter?

Sorry to seemingly hijack this thread but my question seems related so I though it'd be OK to put here.

Thanks


Edited by Winner - 18 May 2012 at 10:30pm

The little in-line strainer is from Shurflo. Check out westmarine.com and do a search for Shurflo. Then the West Marine model part # WM7877921, manufacturer's number MFG Part # 255-323. Cost is $11.99.

You are correct that I suggest putting this little thing in-line just before the cooling water enters that little barbed fitting on the exhaust elbow. When you remove the 1/2" hose that carries the water, you will see how small the hole is on that little fitting. 1/4" at best. It just takes a couple of flakes of rust and your cooling water will be stopped, head gasket will be toast, and all the other stuff that follows. It is cheap insurance.

When you open the little box for this thing it will say to locate it only on the intake side, and then there is a little arrow indicating the direction of the flow. For sure make sure the arrow is pointed in the direction of the flow, but ignore their advice not using it on the discharge side. It is just a simple strainer and debris trap. It worked very well for me before I converted to a heat-exchanger and started running anti-freeze. I cleaned it out several times and it was definitely doing its job. With two hose clamps in hand and a hack saw, installation is 5-minutes.

Found Bill's comment. Currently you are asking about a cooling water subject, but we are in a "water-in-the-oil" subject. Research the subject, "Engine Cooling Water Pump" and you will find Bill's advice posted 11 April.

I have mine in front of me. It is not a Shurflo. Go to stevestonmarine.com and I went to the Canadian site. Under their plumbing items they show the strainer as a model# AA18523 with 1/2" barbs on both sides. Price $17.25.

All options seem viable. The better epoxy to use for this would be J-Weld and thicken with high density filler if necessary.

Used JB Weld before, I have more confidence with that. Going with this option.

Just an update, I received the head back from the shop on friday, however I am waiting on the diesel shop for the fuel injector. Being it was off I took it in to have it tested and serviced, the nozzle turned out to be bad, so Keith was happy to sell me a new one. I will get this on Tuesday and take it to the shop. I was hoping to have everything else back together today, but re-reading the manual I see that I need to measure the amount that the injector protrudes into the head. So today I will work on reinstalling the cylinder and piston. Just as well I have only so much "mechanical patience."

 

Other thoughts on the cylinder, I have coated the threads with anti-sieze but was considering coating the non threaded portion of the bolt with grease or maybe the anti seize, the dry rust made it difficult to remove the bolts from the cylinder.

 

The book talks about shiming the cylinder so that there a set gap between the piston and the head. Since no one has mentioned this, I am assuming every one else ignored this part as well?

If you haven't machined the deck on your cylinder or changed the piston then all you need to do is put back the same gaskets or if new the same thickness. Because nothing will have changed