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Hull Joint Rub Rail |
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frfletch 
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Joined: 13 May 2008 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 365 |
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 Topic: Hull Joint Rub RailPosted: 18 May 2008 at 11:18am |
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I just purchased hull 166, Voila, and am working on making her the boat I want. The rub rail at the hull/deck joint looks awful, worsened by a previous owner with a caulking gun. I note the rub rail fails to meet the hull by about 3/8" on the top which is what he tried to fill and the rail itself is old, oxidized and ugly. Is there a replacement for these?
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Frank Fletcher
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Posted: 20 May 2008 at 4:29pm |
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The rub rail on Andiamo! is ugly as well. I checked everywhere for the exact replacement, but found nothing. However, Hamilton Marine in Bath, Maine has a suitable replacement rail. http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,8742.html
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frfletch
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Joined: 13 May 2008 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 365 |
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Posted: 22 May 2008 at 10:49am |
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Thanks for the information regarding the rail. Do you know, or have you looked to see what the joint flange actually looks like under the rail. How far does it protrude from the hull and how thick are the two pieces flanged together? I found several mouldings from Wefco Rubber Mfg Co. that might be suitable, but can't tell for sure without knowing configuration of joint.
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Frank Fletcher
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Posted: 14 June 2008 at 7:50pm |
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I have a picture with a scale on it, which shows the thickness. On Andiamo! the width varies. It looks like someone practiced putting this boat together. I will search for and scan the photo.
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Posted: 15 June 2008 at 3:11pm |
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The joint flange is approximately 3/4 of an inch or 20 mm and the thickness is 1/2 inch or 12 mm. Hope that this helps, and if you find a suitable rubrail. please let me know.
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frfletch
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Joined: 13 May 2008 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 365 |
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Posted: 16 June 2008 at 2:51am |
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Thanks. I will refine my hunt for a new rub rail with those dimensions as guideline and let you know what I come up with.
Frank |
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Frank Fletcher
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frfletch
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Joined: 13 May 2008 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 365 |
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Posted: 16 June 2008 at 9:09pm |
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Thanks for the help regarding measurements for the flange in support of the rub rail search. For those of you who asked, my research takes me to www/wefcprubber.com who have a huge array of rub rail configurations and sizes for marine applications. If you download and print their section sizes, they come out in true size. Available in black or white with 2-3 weeks delivery time.
Frank |
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Frank Fletcher
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frfletch
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Posted: 16 June 2008 at 9:10pm |
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Sorry for the typo. It is wefcorubber.com
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Frank Fletcher
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Chris Ross
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Joined: 16 November 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 70 |
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Posted: 18 June 2008 at 6:45pm |
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I'm missing a 3' section of rubrail and I have been looking for a replacement for a while now. I was told the rub rail was custom made for the boat, so I really didn't look that hard for a replacement. I have decided to just make a new rubrail using a combination of EPR and PE. I work at a plastics company, so I have access to what I need to put something together. If it works out I'll let you know. |
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Chris Ross
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frfletch
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Posted: 09 September 2009 at 1:13am |
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Chris,
Did you ever make up the rub rail. My time to replace is now. |
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WJRyan
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Joined: 12 February 2008 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 230 |
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Posted: 09 September 2009 at 7:20am |
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I am in the midst of replacing the rub rails as well (port/starboard and the port Hunter34 smooshed 2 rails on my starboard side...) and I am going to have in my hands this week a plastic replacemetn cut to size. This is the type of rail used by the J Boats and comes in white, priced at $65 pre section with end caps included. As soon as my test strip arrives I will take a picture and post it. My problem with other alternatives was getting somethgin that would "curve" appropriately, this solution (so the guy assures me) is hard ABS-type plastic that flexes enough to follow curve of hull/deck. Main difference I can see is that they will need to be screwed in rather than bolted from below.
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Bill Ryan,
Room4Crew, #155 |
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Bill Layton
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Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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Posted: 09 September 2009 at 9:56am |
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WJRyan, I believe you may be referring to the Toe-Rails (deck mounted) rather then the Rub-Rail (PVC) covering the hull-deck joint.
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WJRyan
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Joined: 12 February 2008 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 230 |
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Posted: 10 September 2009 at 7:40am |
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My apologies, Bill is absolutely correct. I guess my smooshed toe rails have "rubbed" me the wrong way! Sorry for confusing the posts althoughanyone with info on replacing toe rails I have 2 to replace and/or 6 to change completely - pics of info noted above will be posted as soon as I get them.
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Bill Ryan,
Room4Crew, #155 |
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fatjohnz
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Joined: 05 August 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 304 |
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Posted: 10 September 2009 at 8:31am |
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lol. i was checking my boat last night thinking... "my rub rails are bolted on?" ;-)
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Bill Layton
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Posted: 10 September 2009 at 10:15am |
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Bill, I've been looking at the very same rail on a J/80 docked beside us. It does look like a good alternative. I'm not sure how its attached though.
FYI, the alum rail on the L28 comes as a straight extrusion, but having a wall thickness of .049 its easily flexible. The 1/4x20 Hex Head bolts slide into the alum extrusion (we designed it this way) and the holes in the deck follow the curve on the deck.... underneath we used lock nuts. It'll all make sense once you disassemble one.
Edited by Bill Layton - 10 September 2009 at 10:17am |
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Brad Cairns
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Joined: 03 June 2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Posted: 21 September 2009 at 10:40am |
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Three years ago I sourced a replacement rub-rail for my Laser 28 from a company called A GLASS ACT (mentioned in Practical Sailor) located at 820 W. Esther Street LONG BEACH, CA 90813-1440.Phone 562 432-4312. They are made of custom extruded rubber in white or grey. They will fax you sheets of different extusions to choose from. I used DIE # 1944 which fits well and is a little larger then the original. The larger size is quite hansome and offers good protection from port tackers. The material is very rugged and easy to install. The company recommended neutural cure silicone to intall the rub-rail but this only lasted two years. I have re-done it with 3M5200 and this seems to be holding well.The cost for 65 feet of rub-rail in 2006 was $550.00 U.S.
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frfletch
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Joined: 13 May 2008 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 365 |
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Posted: 24 September 2009 at 5:27am |
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I have just ordered new rubrail in black EPDM rubber from Wefco Rubber in Canoga Park California. I chose section number 2770 which is a little deeper than the original and should cover the flange and come up to the hull. I expect it here in the next couple of days and will report on how it works out.
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frfletch
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Posted: 30 September 2009 at 12:01pm |
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Regarding rub rails, I just received my replacement rub rail material from WEFCO and it fits perfectly. Better than the original in that the side walls go all the way to the hull top and bottom. It is the 2770 section. I have not fully mounted it yet, but it conforms well to the curves. I ordered a few extra feet so that I can practice miters to do the 4 corners. Cost was $3.00 per foot in black EPBM rubber.
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fatjohnz
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Posted: 30 September 2009 at 12:27pm |
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great, are you going to use something like lifebouy caulk to seal the rub rail in place? are you going to crazy glue the miters or hold them in place w/ the caulk. curious cause i'm planning to do this in about a month. john
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Posted: 30 September 2009 at 3:38pm |
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When I replaced the rub rail on Andiamo!, I cut out about 1/2 an inch of the top surface at the mitered corner to allow water to drain away from between the rub rail and the deck. This reduces the chance that water can infiltrate through the hull/deck joint.
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WJRyan wrote: