Hull fairing around saildrive

the Bostik 1685 still holding strong too  , I paid about 90 bucks for a liter delivered to the door  - enough to do a dozen boats but I hear it has gone way up in price .  One issue with using untried stuff is the cost of a mid season lift out to fix it , but it sounds like we have a few good options now . 

Well the season is over and the boat was hauled out today. I had not expected the 10$ Lepage contact cement would last, but the rubber skin was still tightly fixed to the hull. It had been applied in cool .Beats paying 250$ for the Bostik

Yikes - went expensive ? Who quoted that price to you ? Anyway two years in and its still on solid with the  1685MC,  .  Good luck with the 3m stuff, I hear some people have success with it.  I had thought of buying a can of the 1685 and doling it out to everyone who needs it  but the stuff expires . 

I found this stuff on Amazon.ca and tried it and it works quite well. The only difference between this stuff and the the real glue from Bukh is that it dries much faster. So much so that it dried tack free after 10 minutes the two parts would not stick together at all. I re-activated the glue on both surfaces with Lacquer thinner and it stuck great. After 24 hrs I stuck my hand in the well and grabbed the edge of the rubber and tried to pull it off and it wouldn't budge. I did some tests also and left it submerged and water had no effect on it. 

Edited by Bill Layton - 18 May 2017 at 8:44am

I re-applied my membrane last Fall using 3M weatherstrip adhesive.  I used the old membrane but was sure to remove all previous glue residue and I obviously sanded the hull as well.

when I did WarBird #169 back in 02 or 03 it was part of a complete bottom job. VC Tar off, Interprotect 2000 on. Boat prep is part psychology. The other guy gets worried when he see all the time and effort YOU put into your boat. Fairing and filling and longboarding as the competitors walk by in the yard get them wondering. My saildrive gasket was sh*t but the previous owner had a new one and the bukh glue in the parts kit. I put a 45 degree bevel around the perimeter of the gasket perhaps more for the "wow" factor than actual flow in that area of the hull. I think I did that carefully on a belt sander feeding it carefullly by hand. When we had 5 L28s racing, WarBird was always at or near the front.

Actually it's not too cold to apply this. I've done it at Zero Celsius a few times without problems. 

The original glue used from BUHK is some form of waterproof contact cement. I've installed dozens of these rubbers and they glue so well they are virtually impossible to remove without tearing the rubber apart into pieces. However when I install a rubber, I sand the rubber surface and hull surface well and coat both sides with glue and let it dry tack free before I push the rubber into place. Then I use a roller to roll out the rubber as hard as I can push on it. This is the typical method used when using contact cement. I see many owners suffering the same problem as you folks but it's clear your missing one of these steps. I've never ever been able to remove a rubber I installed without the help of a heat gun (which one must be very careful using) When I hear stories of how the corner didn't stay glued etc I'm certain the standard protocol for using contact cement hasn't been followed. Most rubbers installed at the factory lasted 15 years or more and they only got replace because the rubber cracked around the leg... it did not become unglued. 

Edited by Bill Layton - 18 October 2016 at 7:26pm

After consideration, I'm going to try re-gluing the original rubber membrane.  After haul out the membrane was still attached but I was able to peel it off easily by hand.

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