Changing shaft seal on Bukh DV10LSME Saildrive

Good lead and thanks again but I was surprised when I had to sign for a package thru USPS from Russia, Moscow specifically.  The seals are in there and the packages say they are made in Taiwan but came from Russia.

Well I log back on with the astounding news that I found a Tohatsu seal that would fit. Looks like I'm late to the start...
Thanks everybody for your answers.                                                 https://f25.com/oil-seal-17x30x9-tohatsu-mercury-9-9-40-omax-00001143.html
1.50 usd.
I ordered 2 .
Hopefully this will work.

Edited by bal149 - 13 October 2021 at 4:23pm

Found it. Go to amazon.ca and search for Oil Seal 34665013 by Tohatsu. It will show up an Amazon as Oil Seal Case 346-65013 Fil Tohatsu Nissan outboard 9.9HP, blah, blah, blah. Price is $5.35.00.

And a "thank you" to our late friend who shared this info with me.

Cheers,
Frank

Regarding the sail drive rear seal and bearing assembly, I think you have 2 choices. One is to change the whole assembly if it shows damage due to electrolysis, or just change the seal. The seal is a bit of an odd duck, but is obtainable. It is a 17x30x9 and is a double seal. These are available in the open market but not easy to find. Somewhere I have the information on the exact name and info on the seal and will look for it and then post again. Your best current source for Bukh parts is LSM-Diesel, and write to, or speak with Erik who is very helpful and does speak English. They have a catalog on their website and you can order parts from them. For communication with them use info@lsm-diesel.dk. One issue with them is that while their parts prices are very favourable, they will charge a minimum shipment fee of something like $54, so it is better to line up other spares you may need, or check with other Laser owners to find what spares they require, and do a combined order. A seal should only cost something like $10 in the market, so try not to pay $54 to have it shipped.

When I first ran into the problem, and on mine the entire rear bearing and seal assembly was eaten away by electrolysis, I made a new one. I could not find the double seal at the time and so I had to purchase 2 pieces of 17x30x5mm, and then mount them back to back. If you try to do that on the original assembly, owing to the two seals combining to make a total of 10mm thick instead of 9mm, you will not be able to fit the spring keeper on the back of the unit together with its thin washer that is meant to go in front of it. In my case, I machined an entirely new rear bearing and seal assembly and allowed the extra milimeter of recess in the back in order to accommodate the twin seals and the retaining keeper (circlip). However, if you are operating in a fresh water environment, then your assembly body is probably all good and you just need to change the seal.

I will get back to you with information on the open market seal when I find it.

Frank

Fletch,

No pictures, and I felt guilty about that while we were doing the job.  The problem was, we would have needed another person to take the photos.  We intended to take some photos, but when we realized we could do the job without removing the gears at all, it took all our hands to hold things together, clean and replace.  Sorry.

Just about done with the bearing/seal replacement.  Put it back together yesterday, so I need to put the final tighten on the allen screws today.  We had one snafu during the process.  We found that we did not have to take the gears out of the drive. We cracked the bottom off, lowered the gears just enough to slide the old bearing off the shaft, then snuck the new one in without disturbing anything.  We cleaned all the surfaces, screws and holes where old lock tight and gasket gook was.  Snafu- In my haste to get things done while assistants arms grew weary holding the gears in place, we did not notice the spacers on the old bearing/seal.  The new bearing did not come with them. So we put it back together, then took a closer look at the old one. WHOOPS!  Back apart, cleaned up and added the spacers to the new bearing. Second time around we did the job in about 30 minutes. We shifted (motor off) a few times and we seem to have neutral, forward and reverse.  After I tighten and add oil, I'll put the diaper back on to check for leaks....fingers crossed. 

Ahhh...Good on the washer.  I had that suspicion, thanks for confirming.  

Couple more questions....

Yes.  Water in the leg.  I put a diaper around the drive and the leak was identified right at the bearing housing.  The drain plug did not leak.  It has the appropriate Bukh washer.  The guy that had the boat before me was great for buying spare parts.