Maintenance - Gori Prop rebuild?????????

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Gori Prop rebuild?????????

Printed From: Laser 28 International Class Association
Category: Laser 28 General
Forum Name: Maintenance
Forum Description: All the things to care for your boat
URL: http://www.laser28.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=498
Printed Date: 18 May 2024 at 1:41pm
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Topic: Gori Prop rebuild?????????

Posted By: Jon167
Subject: Gori Prop rebuild?????????
Date Posted: 23 October 2011 at 11:10am

Ok I have read through the posts about rebuilding the rubber isolation damper with epoxy and I am not interested in that route. Anyone have other suggestions?

Anyone send it for repair? How much did that cost?

Anyone ever work with a curable Urethane or rubber before?

Replies:

Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 23 October 2011 at 11:47am

Gori won't repair old props any longer. They re-designed the inner core and hub so that they are star shaped and captive to each other... so if the rubber fails the core won't slip. This means that the rubber can no longer shear and it now acts more like an isolator (the original intention) This re-design happened in approx 1999. Since then I haven't seen or heard of the new design failing.

Posted By: Jon167
Date Posted: 23 October 2011 at 12:10pm

that sounds like a fantastic solution. are there any after market sleeves for the inerts?

I understand the dampening isolation but why is there a emphases on the conductivity?

Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 23 October 2011 at 12:57pm

The insert is what we refer to as the core.... that fits into the hub, both have the star shape, but the core star is opposite to the hub star, so that the star shapes fit together to form one. So the core/insert is only half of the solution. Conductivity is the whole reason for the rubber lining. All saildrive propellers are designed to be electrically isolated from the propeller shaft of the sail drive, because of the dissimilar metals that get submerged in a conductive solution (salt water). The rubber isolates the largest mass of the bronze prop from the other metals surrounding it.

Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 23 October 2011 at 1:12pm

This is a cut and paste from Gluguru.com

http://gluguru.com/henkel.htm#PowerSeries - http://gluguru.com/henkel.htm#PowerSeries

T-1500 Sicomet T-1500 is a modified cyanoacrylate adhesive with a medium to high viscosity. The unique chemistry of Sicomet T-1500 gives it better shock vibration resistance than regular cyanoacrylate adhesives. In addition, it provides exceptional flexibility and thermal cycling resistance compared to standard cyanoacrylates. The viscosity of Sicomet T-1500 makes it especially suitable for bonding porous materials such as foam rubber or impregnated cloth. This product also gives reliable bonds to metal, rubber and plastic materials.

I wonder if you could find a small quantity?

Posted By: Jon167
Date Posted: 24 October 2011 at 12:16pm

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/318616_2463912326050_1499517521_32628306_12834333_n.jpg - https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/318616_2463912326050_1499517521_32628306_12834333_n.jpg

here is my mess.....

Posted By: Jon167
Date Posted: 24 October 2011 at 1:38pm

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/295960_2464594023092_1499517521_32628931_384051695_n.jpg - https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/295960_2464594023092_1499517521_32628931_384051695_n.jpg

if it's any help for anyone I have successfully removed all the rubber from the prop with a 2" hole saw. what I found was a phenolic centering washer for the outboard end of the inner hub, not sure what they used on the inboard end. From the looks of things the rubber seems to hold up reasonably well, can't really ask for more than 25yrs. now the question? not knowing much about rubber, how the hell is this process done?

Posted By: Jon167
Date Posted: 24 October 2011 at 8:32pm

http://siliconesolutions.com/index.html - http://siliconesolutions.com/index.html