Maintenance - replacement rudder

Print Page | Close Window

replacement rudder

Printed From: Laser 28 International Class Association
Category: Laser 28 General
Forum Name: Maintenance
Forum Description: All the things to care for your boat
URL: http://www.laser28.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=350
Printed Date: 23 November 2024 at 6:35am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 11.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: replacement rudder

Posted By: Cayuga
Subject: replacement rudder
Date Posted: 13 September 2009 at 6:00pm

We've just finished the first season racing our Laser 28 and while love the boat, we're not too psyched about the rudder. Our boat has the short rudder and we've been losing it, mostly going upwind in heavy air. I understand that a lot of this is our fault, not enough weight, not dumping the main quickly enough, etc. The other Laser 28 in my area has the longer rudder and this has never been an issue.

Can any of you who have replaced your rudder comment on who designed/built it and how you like the results? Are there any stock "long" rudders still kicking around anywhere that I might be able to buy?

thanks, Andy

Replies:

Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 15 September 2009 at 9:33pm

Long rudders you have been hearing about were built by the factory and designed by Bruce Farr. They were optional equipment. Both had same drag coefficient according to the Farr office. Longer rudder was only 4.5" longer than the standard rudder. Longer rudder seems to hang in there a little longer in big seas but I've never witnessed a performance difference.

Posted By: khardy
Date Posted: 16 September 2009 at 9:29am

Bill, how would I know which rudder I have? What is the length of the long or short rudder?

Cayuga, in my opinion if you are "loosing it" upwind a longer rudder may help you keep control longer but you'll still be dog slow. To win, you simply can't sail the boat with that much weather helm.

Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 16 September 2009 at 10:39am

Standard rudder is 43 5/8" from bottom of trailing edge to top of trailing edge :)

Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 20 September 2009 at 11:32pm

We have raced the past year and a half if winds averaging between 20-25 with the standard rudder and never had a problem. It is a given that this boat needs weight on the rail at all times. If the boat is kept upright where it sails best, the rudder is no problem. I think weight on the rail and proper sail selection, sail adjustments, and an active main sail trimmer are more the answer than a longer rudder.

I've not seen the longer rudder, but I got a sketch of it with drawings I received from Farr, and I would not use it owing to the increased wetted surface. It looks to be effectively the same rudder, extended at the bottom and at the trailing edge. Too bad the alternate was not much less wide and higher in it's aspect ratio, but it was designed a long time ago.

Posted By: WJRyan
Date Posted: 04 July 2017 at 10:36am

Greetings all. I recently had a run in with a log and the log won and my rudder trailing edge is scraping the hull, post seems to have been bent. Bill kindly shared the fastcomposites.ca link with me and a group in FL was recommended www.newrudders.com but they don't have a mold. They asked for dimensions and shaft diameter and Bill shared that there are no drawings or specs but I wondered if anyone else might have them.

And if you know of any used rudders available I would love to know that too! Thanks everyone - bill

-------------
Bill Ryan,

Room4Crew, #155

Posted By: frfletch
Date Posted: 04 July 2017 at 12:57pm

With a deep set of callipers you can plot the offsets of the rudder and then use them to make a pattern. Trace the current rudder and then make a few patters with balsa wood and sandwich them between blocks of a high density foam, say 7lbs/ft3. Then use a hot wire and bow hooked to a 12V battery and let the wire ride on the balsa ribs and cut out the new rudder shape.

Alternatively, do a surgery on y our existing blade. On one side only, cut down from the top along the stainless steel post using a sabre saw with a short blade and cut alongside the SS post. When you get to a fin, cut around that until you have cut all around the ss part staying very close to them. Dig out the foam on top of the SS bits, and then use a diamond wire saw to cut under the SS bits. This t type of saw is usually available in army supply outlets or MEC. It is simply a little cable with diamonds on it and a ring on each end to put your fingers through.

With the SS bits removed, the rest is simple. Lay in the new post and finds with Epoxy and filler using micro ballon on the last layer and fair up the cutout portion. The original foam is extremely high density, but you can replace it with either the same or an epoxy filler.

Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 04 July 2017 at 1:02pm

The rudder has no fiberglass in it... it's made of high density urethane foam only. The same as a small laser rudder or centreboard

Posted By: John Mills
Date Posted: 05 July 2017 at 7:55pm

Wasn't there a guy parting out a Laser just a year or two ago , I wonder if the rudder is around still ?

-------------
Unplugged
# 164
NOTL