Saildrive gears no longer available!
Printed From: Laser 28 International Class Association
Category: Laser 28 General
Forum Name: Maintenance
Forum Description: All the things to care for your boat
URL: http://www.laser28.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=337
Printed Date: 28 April 2024 at 8:57pm
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Topic: Saildrive gears no longer available!
Posted By: Bill Layton
Subject: Saildrive gears no longer available!
Date Posted: 04 May 2009 at 2:15pm
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Alternative Solution is here!! The BUKH DV8-10 is no longer being produced. I believe most parts are still available thru Bukh distributors except recently we learned that the saildrive gears cannot be had. During an email exchange with Simon Gregoire (Colibri CAN 224) I learned he had a damaged gear repaired. Here is a cut and paste from him: Thanks Simon! I had a saildrive gear tooth broken off so that less than 25% of it was left. They rebuilt it so perfectly I could not tell which tooth had been broken off even with very close inspection. The gear came back looking new. I was told they didn’t weld the broken tooth back in place, instead they rebuilt it from the base up with new material and then they grind it down to perfectly match the other ones. I still sent the broken tooth to them so it’s easier for them to create an imprint of what they are trying to match. Here is their address: United Welding Processes (Montreal and Toronto) http://www.uwp.qc.ca/en/">http://www.uwp.qc.ca/en/ |
Replies:
Posted By: jflood
Date Posted: 10 May 2011 at 7:34pm
| I have a complete saildrive for the Laser 28 in excellent condition, as well as the Gori folding propellor, all from a fresh water boat . Both these have no corrosion, should thers be any interest, please contact |
Posted By: ben varley
Date Posted: 08 July 2011 at 4:01pm
|
jflood,
I am interested in the saildrive leg - is it still for sale? Ben |
Posted By: Jon167
Date Posted: 28 August 2011 at 11:18am
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im interested as well....... |
Posted By: WarBird
Date Posted: 04 October 2011 at 11:04am
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Bukh is not running. Little compression hand cranking the flywheel. Fair amount of air blowing out the intake port while turning the flywheel. Valve lash exists in that the rocker moves freely on compession and lifts the valve on intake, same with exhaust valve. With the head off and intake valve out, valve seat has some pitting. Seatis carboned up at the valve shield area.
Is this a "cut the seat and replace the valve" repairor should I be looking further. |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 04 October 2011 at 11:39am
Yes this is a cut a new seat and replace valves... typically the exhaust valve is usually worse for wear. Check valve guides so that they are not loose, they can be changed easily. Be sure the head isn't warped as it may need to be milled. Make sure you remove the water jacket cover near the bottom stb side. It like to clog up in that area. Doing this and re installing with a new head gasket usually gets it right. Verify cylinder bore looks good.... meaning no unusual wear occuring. A ridge at the top of the cylinder is ok. Goodluck! 
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Posted By: WarBird
Date Posted: 04 October 2011 at 12:14pm
| I pulled a real basic test. With the head laying flat, valves up, I poured paint thinner(teaspoon) on each valve. intake valve leaked all of it into the intake port, almost nonein exhaust port. This motor possibly over revved and maybe bent the intake. Source for a intake valve? Do I need to pull the injector before valve seat work? |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 04 October 2011 at 12:22pm
| I've never been able to remove the head from the block without removing the injector....so not sure how you did that but yes remove injector before any further handling(don't lose the copper gaskets under the injector). Keith Strutt is the Canadian distributor for BUKH parts... hes a good guy and knows this engine well 613-634-8100 |
Posted By: WarBird
Date Posted: 04 October 2011 at 11:00pm
| What is the trick to removing the injector. It is pretty firmly planted in the cylinder head. |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 04 October 2011 at 11:55pm
| Once the nuts are removed, just use a large screwdriver to pry the cylinder out of the bore |
Posted By: WarBird
Date Posted: 18 October 2011 at 11:21pm
| Intake valve has a shield. Is this sheild to be oriented such that it diverts intake air away from the injector or does it face the other way. |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 19 October 2011 at 12:07am
| Shield faces towards air intake :) |
Posted By: WarBird
Date Posted: 19 October 2011 at 10:21am
| Seems, on relooking, the sheild is oriented either up (flywheel direction) or down (back/bottom of engine). Ideas? |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 19 October 2011 at 10:55am
| Hmm I can't remember, I thought the swirl flap faced the intake. Call Keith Strutt at 613-634-8100 he rebuilds these engines all the time. The washer inside locates itself on a pin, then your left with only two possible positions as I remember |
Posted By: WarBird
Date Posted: 19 October 2011 at 11:03am
| Thanks, looking at the spring guide (washer), the slot is cut of-center so I will use that as the guide as to which way the flat on the valvestem faces and hence, the swirlflap. Hadn't seen one of those before, nor had the machineist who has heads stacked all over the place. |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 19 October 2011 at 11:05am
| when I disassemble I force myself to remember where the flap is.... however its been a while :) |
Posted By: Bill Layton
Date Posted: 19 October 2011 at 11:07am
| just remembered, if there is another Laser 28 near you...just remove the air filter and look in the port you will see it |
Posted By: WarBird
Date Posted: 19 October 2011 at 11:15am
| Why didn't I think of that. We are still planning one more sail before we drop his stick for the winter. The "one more sail" is because you can't put a boat on the hard if there is still beer in the cooler. |