Sad to say, but in these northern climes I'm sure many of you have noticed the nights are getting cooler...this can only mean that winter is sneaking up on us.

Perhaps you've even been notified of your haul-out date and you have already started running through the check list of things to do for the winter. Certainly one of the important parts of that process is the preparation of the Bukh engine for its hibernation.

Here's a couple of tips you might want to use, if you're not already doing so, in getting your engine ready. As always, if anyone feels they have a better method by all means chime in here.

• Get the engine up operating temperature, let it then cool a bit and proceed to change the oil. From memory it takes about 1.3 litres of oil to fill after a change. Don't overfill it!
• Once full of new oil, bring the engine back up to normal operating temperature. This may take some time to do when the outside temps are cool. A diesel will not reach temperature by just idling, you must put the engine under load more likely by going out for a spin.
• Assuming this is your last run with engine and it will now be winterised, you'll want to have anti-freeze on hand. Be sure that the engine is hot and that the thermostat is fully open - how can you do that you ask? By feeling with your hand around the thermostat housing on the top (facing aft) of the cylinder head. You'll want to make sure this is the same temperature as the rest of the engine and be quite warn to the touch but not enough to burn you.
• Use plumbers anti-freeze to winterise the engine as it is more environmentaly friendly than glycol. Be sure to check the freezing temperature rating.
• Next, either with the engine running or starting just after, take the cover off the water intake strainer and prepare to pour in anti-freeze, close the valve on the through hull fitting for the water intake.
• With the valve closed and the engine running, pour anti-freeze into the strainer to maintain a sufficient level. Run the engine until pure anti-freeze is ejected from the exhaust, once this is acheived - turn off the engine.
• Your Bukh should be ready for many cold days ahead.

The critical aspect of this proceedure is to ensure the thermostat is open before filling with anti-freeze. This is the only way to ensure sufficient protection in the thermostat housing and possibly the head against freezing and cracking.

I hope this helps and if someone would like to add more to this that's great.

Cheers,

Paul,

Sailing's just started here on the wet coast. We are in the salty stuff so freezing and consequential head cracking is not an issue, however starting in the cold stuff can be a challenge. My most current technique is a blow torch in the inlet with the air filter removed, this in combination with decompressing the engine to get the revs up usually works. What do others do?

BTW DON"T use ether (quikstart) as this will blow the head gasket. Don't ask how I know.

Chris,

LOL..."sailing's just started here on the wet coast."  Too true...but beautiful country.

So you have an 'alergy' to ether do you? We'll have to remember that. I guess you've toned things down a little and just use a blow torch now  .

No doubt in cooler climes I can see having to use the decompression lever, as you say you need to get the rpms up to start it. You might try a hair dryer on the intake if you need to (sounds safer...lol) and don't forget that little rubber plug on the head where you can put a couple of drops of oil into to lube the cylinder and give you more compression.

Cheers,

This will be my first winter with Impact. What else should be on the winterize list?

-antifreeze in engine.

-full fuel tank to minimize condensation.

-antifreeze in head or disassemble pump? (empty holding tank)

-battery fully charged and stored off the boat indoors

-empty beer cans to recycling

I notice that no has mention to open the drain plug located on the cylinder. I did, I wanted to be sure that the antifreeze made it to the cylinder. It did, but now I am having a bugger of a time getting the little lock nut to thread back onto the plug. I suppose an easier way to drain, would be to pull the feeder hose from the bottom of the cylinder head located on the Starboard side, I am thinking this should drain the cylinder head, the cylinder and you can check for rust accumulation at the same time. I did this not so much on whether to drain or not, (Seems like the consensus is not to drain to inhibit rust) but just to be sure that the antifreeze made it through the system.