Consideration for purchasing a Laser 28

The engine is a single cylinder motor. Every time the piston moves away from top dead center (combustion and exhaust) it move toward the crank case compressing the air there. the breather (engine oil fill) releases this pressure and a small amount of oil vapor.The vapor condenses and settles, collecting int the lowest places whick happen to be those engine mount recesses. keep a roll of paper towel handy and wipe up after a longer delivery.

One otherthing. This is in regard to motoring and a clean transom. The exhaust,right onthe transom causes the transom to accumulate a little exhaust soot. Fitting a PVC 135 degree elbow into the exhaust opening and facing the outlet down towards the water reduces the soot greatly. The outlet fitted has changed over the years so you will have to experiment a little. 4000/4200 holds just fine.

I got that one from Banana Wind #233. He had #169 , I bought it from him. You don't need a perfect fit and may have to shave a little off the next size up to push into the throughhull exhaust outlet. Mind that a too small may restrict exhaust flow but on #169 I never saw that problem. #233 seems to have a larger outlet. They cost $.69 to $2.39 or something. When they get bumped off with a dinghy or inflateable, cheap and easy to replace, onthe spot or years end. They reduce sooting on transom 90%. Looking at our Chi-Mac pictures from 2008, Eclipse is black across the transom waterline. we put that boat in the water at Chicago with aclean, prepped hull. We ran an hour to the start and 2-3 hours charging during the race and the transom was sooted pretty good.   WarBird ,#169, with the elbow never had more than a light film after 4-5 hour deliveries.

I think wide open they run about 6kt, maybe 6.4. Back it off to 3/4 throttle, the engine is smoother, quieter and you only lose about 1/2 knot. Engine should last alot longer too.

Ok, another question;  on the port side where the shrouds meet the deck, there is a slight depression with some crazing around the block that goes through the Deck to the chain plates. It looks like someone may have over tightened the bolts. So I am thinking soft spot or maybe the problem will fix it self if the bolts were lossened a bit. Any one else had this experience?

Any chance we could get a picture of what it should look like Bill? This sounds like a topic that could use a 1000 words!   Thanks, :)bill

I don't have a pic handy, but it's very simple. Go look at both wood v-berth bulkheads where they are bonded under the deck.... see if they are up tight against the underside of the deck and then try to wiggle them....if they move around there will definitely be a gap. The you know you have to re-epoxy them.... i.e, clean up the surfaces and rebond with epoxy putty. Its not a diffuicult job. Best done with mast down

Thanks for the information, I will take a look at this weekend.  Another question; There is another laser that I am looking at which is a newer version with the fiberglass hull. Is there any advantages of the kevlar over the fiberglass? and what is the weight difference? Thanks

fletch speaks wise words. for every hour of racing there seems to be an hour of maintenance. find a solid boat and keep her well. sj

Yes remove the deck casting, clean all old sealant from it and re-install with new sealant. Thats is, if it is leaking.