Gori Prop Removal

If the prop is lose on it's rubber bushing, one thing you csn try for a temporary-medium term fix, is:

Take the blades off the hub. Heat the hub in the oven to a temp of about 220-240f and stand on a board covered with some was paper. While this is being done, mix up some good, long-cure epoxy and let set through a short gestation period while prop is heating. Pour the epoxy around the hub, separating the inner and outer rigs of the hub with a small screw driver to get the epoxy to flow inside. The heat off the brass will instantly thin the viscosity of the epoxy allowing it to flow. Keep working on this until you get as much epoxy down into the gap as is possible. Don't clean off the excess until after initial set takes place in case the fissure absorbs more epoxy. Let sit without disturbance for 72 hours and remount.

I had a very wiggly hub and did this just before departing on a 3 week cruising trip in July, and am still using the same prop while the new one has not come out of the box yet.

I'm sure there are some specialty urethanes in the market that would work better than epoxy, but I was out of time waiting for a new prop to arrive prior to vacation departure, and I had the epoxy so I went with that.

Hi Bill and Bill,
The gear puller worked, thanks. Note: although the exploded Gori diagram in the original manual showed a fifth allen screw, There's no sign of it on my prop.
For others with this problem, a 5 ton 2 blade puller had enough reach and worked well. A 2 ton puller was too short.
Thanks again
Tony

Hello Tony,

I believe I understand what you are explaining, but I don't have an answer. I still have my old prop and it does not have what I would call a set or allen screw as you describe. I would suggest you message Bill Layton. If he can not answer your question e-mail Gori at http://www.gori-propeller.dk/.

Hopefully someone can tell you more.

Bill


Edited by Bill Layton - 10 August 2010 at 9:23pm

Hello Tony,

If you read elsewhere on this site you will see reference to the original propeller design having a rubber dampening sleeve that eventually wears out. The play you are getting is probably from that sleeve. There is no way the propeller can jump teeth on the spline. It may appear to be doing that becasue of sleeve failure. You may, however, have a burr on the shaft where you removed the cotter pin that is preventing the propeller assembly from moving aft on the shaft. Check that first and remove the burr. Be careful not to damage the threads on the shaft.

If can get the cotter pin out you should be able to back off the nut off without removing the blades, assuming the nut was not put on with a wrench. Back off the nut as far as you can and then slide the propeller assembly aft on the shaft as far as you can and then unscrew the nut some more, etc., etc. Note there are washers between the nut and the propeller assembly. Be careful not to loose them and remember the sequence. As best I remember the most forward washer is machined on the inside diameter to go over the spline.

There is no reason to ever use a wrench to tighten this nut since there is a spline transfering the engine power to propeller assembly. The nut should just be finger tight to align the hole through the shaft for the cotter pin with the nearest grove or opening in the nut. I would recommend you always use new stainless cotter pins when you reinstall the propeller. Some varieties of stainless steel will fatigue and break very quickly when bent at sharp angles just a few times.

I would also recommend you remove the propeller, inspect and clean the zinc anode each year as also discussed elsewhere on this web site.

Hope this helps.

Bill