Interprotect

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   Is it worth the time and money to do an Interprotect job on L28 hull? Is VC17 considered to be a protection besides the glide factor? Boat is on a fresh water lake. 

Thanks, JFG

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JFG104 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rookie Joined: 15 March 2009 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 6	Post Options Post Reply Quote JFG104 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Interprotect Posted: 15 March 2009 at 3:22pm
	Is it worth the time and money to do an Interprotect job on L28 hull? Is VC17 considered to be a protection besides the glide factor? Boat is on a fresh water lake. Thanks, JFG

murph Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2003 Status: Offline Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote murph Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 March 2009 at 10:31pm
	yes interprotect definitely helps against osmosis/blistering in fresh water.

JFG104 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rookie Joined: 15 March 2009 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 6	Post Options Post Reply Quote JFG104 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 March 2009 at 8:55am
	Some say Interprotect will keep the humidity inside the hull... our hull has no sign of osmosis/blistering at this point. What should we do? JFG

murph Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2003 Status: Offline Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote murph Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 March 2009 at 5:32pm
	Sometimes we see a light rash begining....then is a good time to sand lightly and coat with interprotect. However not all L28's have this problem.... since your boat is fine I'd be inclined to leave it as-is and just keep an eye on it

WarBird Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Skipper Joined: 25 January 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 92	Post Options Post Reply Quote WarBird Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 March 2009 at 2:36pm
	My surveyor told me I had moisture after our first season. I was planning to strip the tar and go interprotect any way. Interprotect is tough to tip out on the first coat but may tip a little better on successive coats. Rolled a ton of coats (6-7) in grey. sanded smooth and filled any hollows with a thick coat or two. Rolled on two coats of white and smoothed the hull. WarBird 0169

fatjohnz Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commodore Joined: 05 August 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 296	Post Options Post Reply Quote fatjohnz Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 March 2009 at 10:05am
	I did the 6-7 recommended coats of interprotect on my '85 Merit 25 and it left me questioning whether it was really worth it. Personally I would not put it on an older boat again but that's just my opinion. My Laser has/had a nice Baltoplate finish and putting interprotect on her is out of the question. VC17 provides no protection from water penetration. I prefer the VC offshore. I just finished a 2nd coat of offhore yesterday (1 gallon + 1 quart for 2 coats). Similar and compatible w/ Baltoplate. Hard as a rock and good antifouling. A quick power-sand today followed some hand sanding and she should be good for 2 seasons (fresh/brackish environment).
	the freak flag is flying

Bill Brock Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Skipper Joined: 08 February 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 53	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bill Brock Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 March 2009 at 10:34am
	Warbird hit the nail on the head. I put on Interprotect four years ago and it has performed very well with no blisters or lifting. Just make sure you are down to the gelcoat and have absolutely no surface contaminants. Interlux makes a solvent to prep the surface. Be sure to use it or MEK solvent (NOT MEK Peroxide) or Acetone. If there is the possibility of any wax on the surface, use Toluene as well. These solvent are hazardous (Toluene is very hazardous) so be sure to wear heavy black rubber gloves used for chemicals and solvents. Lowe’s or Home Depot sells them in the paint dept. Set up a fan to gently blow the fumes and vapors away from your face as you apply it. Strong vapor concentrations can cause damage to your eyes, so just a respirator is not enough. Get it right now, understand the basics, and you will have many years of good sailing.

Cayuga Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Crew Joined: 20 October 2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 45	Post Options Post Reply Quote Cayuga Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 24 March 2009 at 4:38pm
	This is interesting, when I bought my boat last fall the surveyor told me that there was moisture in the hull. He said that since there was no delamination not to worry about it, and go sailing. He recommended against a barrier coat on the premise that at this point a barrier coat just traps whatever moisture is already in there. The horse is already out of the barn... It's always been a fresh water boat, now moving to salt water, so I'm in the process of sanding off the VC-17 to apply Vivid. It looks like there may be a layer or two of VCtar underneath the VC-17 (dark brown stuff but not shiny) but I've never seen VCtar before. The gelcoat looks great, really no indication of any blisters. I think I'm just going to rough it up with 80 grit and apply a few coats of Vivid, and go sailing. Hopefully I won't regret this decision. The boat will be hauled out for 6-7 months every year. Quote: Originally posted by WarBird on 21 March 2009 My surveyor told me I had moisture after our first season. I was planning to strip the tar and go interprotect any way. Interprotect is tough to tip out on the first coat but may tip a little better on successive coats. Rolled a ton of coats (6-7) in grey. sanded smooth and filled any hollows with a thick coat or two. Rolled on two coats of white and smoothed the hull. WarBird 0169

Bill Layton Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bill Layton Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 29 March 2009 at 11:42am
	I suspect the core moisture problem is occuring inside the boat.... these boats all leak thru the windows etc and water gets trapped in the ribnetwork liner, that supports the keel loads. Those areas were not painted with gelcoat before the liner was bonded in place. So when the bilge is full of water (quite common) it gets under the liner and sloshes around, then gets absorbed into the core. I've never seen a L28 check out dry on a moisture meter check ever. I've seen boats that were Interprotected at the factory still have hull moisture readings. Also I've never seen any delams because of this. The core we used was a closed cell cross-linked Termanto PVC foam core, used also for the deck. This stuff appears to stay bonded no matter how much water travels thru it. BTW this was a very high end foam we imported from Italy by the container. I believe its still being used today. Here's a mention on it http://books.google.ca/books?id=pPirpE73tDYC&pg=PA174&lpg=PA174&dq=termanto+closed+cell+foam&source=bl&ots=o5WIVhVlvp&sig=QcPjvurYB9g_mhz8BB8R2EqYyHc&hl=en&ei=xofPSb7VGZjrlQebvuTICQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&resnum=7&ct=result

WarBird Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Skipper Joined: 25 January 2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 92	Post Options Post Reply Quote WarBird Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 April 2009 at 1:49pm
	Bills point on water entering from inside is probably right on. We stripped the vc tar off because it was checking and/or peeling all over. Stripping tar is an ugly job. We found home supply store have strippers $12-$18 gal that are similar (same?) as the WestMarine $65 product. We used the project to FAIR the hull, there were some obvious hollows that we filled with extra layers of interprotect. The keel to stub joint got extra attention. We stick with VC 17 for bottom paint. We "swim the boat" (wipe off the bottom w/l to keel bottom) before regattas. We re paint annually with a quart or quart and a half if someone else has a left over half from thier bottom. Do not, I repeat Do not start a new interprotect or any other bottom job now!!! If it was good enough for 24 years it can wait till fall. We stripped the bottom over a period of a week to three weeks in October/November. I'd apply stripper to a section and go to work. Crew would show up at noon or so and clean off the stripper and add a new coat or do a new section. I'd stop after work for an hour of cleaning off what crew left for me. No hurrys, no commissioning burnout, plenty of time for Beer. IF the moisture was from gel coat absorbsion (see Bill Layton comments above) the boat had a whole winter and early spring to release that moisture. Then we did the prep, de-waxing et cetra for the barrier coat. It was a big job but we broke it into managable pieces.

JFG104 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Rookie Joined: 15 March 2009 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 6	Post Options Post Reply Quote JFG104 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 April 2009 at 10:04am
	Hi, Boat is nearly stripped: gelcoat is nice and smooth, no signs of blistering or or major humidity detected, just normal stuff for a L28, recent survey found not dead spots on hammer test. There's one hairline 10" crack through waterline in line with port cabin window. Keel joint is perfect, some light scratches here and there that will be faired. Now, I consider 3 options: 1. Roll 2 coats of West system pure epoxy before VC-17m (did this on previous boat with great results); 2. 2-3 coats of International VCTAR before VC-17m; 3. Complete Interprotect job (5 coats?), then VC-17m. Since I couldn't prepare the boat last fall and let it dry during winter months, I'm afraid Interprotect treatment will tarp present humidity inside. How about VCTar? I like the idea of letting the boat breath during winter months. Is this a myth??? Hope my english is not too bad Thanks much for your advices. JFG
	Thanks

murph Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Admin Group Joined: 25 January 2003 Status: Offline Points: 3	Post Options Post Reply Quote murph Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 April 2009 at 1:15am
	yeah think I'd prefer Interprotect (have that on my boat after removing mudcracked vctar yrs ago @#$%^&*....have used the others....vctar definitely last on the list. I think interprotect is more flexible than straight west sys epoxy. However its your choice Cheers Bill Layton