Engine trouble

How do you know the fuel lift pump is moving fuel thru the system? You can have fuel at the injector while the low pressure side doesn't have enough pressure. Initially anyways.

Was anything done to the fuel system or engine before this started? Why was there a linkage problem? Is the fuel shut off selonoid working correctly?

Edited by Bill Layton - 06 May 2015 at 9:07am

Does anyone have a copy of the electrical that that is more clear than the online manuals. I can't read the colors or the component names. thx

Great idea. I am a strong believer in that little engine. I did have to re-build mine a few years ago, but it was not that difficult and it runs perfectly and starts immediately every time. Of all the modern sail drive/engine combinations, I still think the Bukh is the best for our Laser.
I dream of swapping out the diesel for a 10-15 hp 4-cycle outboard power head adapted to the Bukh sail drive to try saving about 50 lbs, but don't really have the time for it and I just love the economy and reliability of the Bukh diesel.

What did you finally do in your engine replacement? Did you abandon the Bukh, or did you re-build yours?

Bill , thanks for the info on the forestay.
I'm going to pull the engine and I could use any hints or tips or removal sequence that you have to make this easier.
I read a post with a trick for lifting the engine but the details were not in the post. If you would PM me or email me at fatjohnz28 at gmail dot com
much apprciated, john

Checked w/ MikeM earlier today and the engine and sail drive already sold.
Keith from Crinmar wants to take a look at mine so the dead head is on its way to Ontario.... Thanks for the offer MikeV but its boxed and gone.
js

How about that fellow parting his boat out? Perhaps you could acquire the engine from him. Just an idea.

Yes. Silicon bronze brazing to exhaust side.

Don't use a screwdriver. You will end up with burrs on both the head and top of cylinder. Make a plastic wedge as Bill suggests using nylon or P.E. The best way to have removed your head would have been to remove the injector nozzle, stick a skinny screwdriver into the hole to feel the top of the piston then turn the flywheel until the piston is at the bottom. Then, use some gear oil and put it in the hole where the nozzle fits. Replace the nozzle, loosen the four bolts holding the head and cylinder about 1/4", place some towels at the bottom, and crank the engine over with the ignition. The head will blow off without force. However, now that the seal is cracked, you will likely have to continue using wedges.

I removed the 4 nuts, exhaust, fuel, and water. Then cracked the joint by pounding a putty knife into it. It still didn't release all the way. Hopefully there is nothing internal holding it up and I can go after it with a flat bar? I didn't have the heart to pound a screwdriver into the joint. thx, john