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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14 October 2014 at 10:08pm

The kill switch position of the ignition stopped working reliably. Since it was intermittent, I replaced the ignition swith. It still only works occasionally. The solenoid is on the top rear of the engine right? The metal tab on top is loose so I was going to try to solder it. In the mean time, we shut down the engine with the lever behind the air cleaner.

The engine has not been starting as of late although we have plenty of cranking power. It takes a shot of diesel starting fluid to get her going after sitting, even if she's warm. And it has also stalled once or twice after the fluid burns off. I'm thinking there is a leak in the fuel line letting air up to the injector. I'm planning to change the fuel filter and then loosen/tighten all the fittings from the pump to the injector.

Today when I checked my oil, it was milky. Could the starting fluid be generating too much pressure in the cylinder and causing a temporary gasket fail? Once started , the engine has been running fine. I'm going to change the oil for starters.

Any suggestions on how to diagnose and fix this baby? thx, js   
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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 October 2014 at 12:52am
Milky oil means a blown headgasket and or a warped cylinder head. Don't run the engine with milky oil as you will cause further damage if it runs for too long. This certainly causes your other problems. If your engine has plenty of cranking power then not sure what would be wrong with the ignition switch. Time to get that head off and in for service.
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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2014 at 9:27am
Hi Bill, Would you suggest I send the head to Crinmar for evaluation/service? I guess the other option would be to just have it planed and re-install with a new head gasket... I don't have the tools to check the valve guides and seat myself... thanks, John
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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2014 at 9:31am
You could do that but any engine shop should be able to pressure test the head and verify if it overheated and became warped or cracked etc. Crinmar sends it out to someone else for this service.
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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2014 at 7:32pm
I removed the 4 nuts, exhaust, fuel, and water. Then cracked the joint by pounding a putty knife into it. It still didn't release all the way. Hopefully there is nothing internal holding it up and I can go after it with a flat bar? I didn't have the heart to pound a screwdriver into the joint. thx, john
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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 October 2014 at 8:48pm
Yeah some heads are seized in place by the carbon buildup on the studs. I've done approx. 12 head jobs and 50% of them are like this. I made plastic wedges from UHMW plastic and hammered the daylights out of them and it still can take a few hours to get off. Have patience it'll take some time but there is nothing else holding it in place.... just corrosion and carbon
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frfletch View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 October 2014 at 2:22pm
Don't use a screwdriver. You will end up with burrs on both the head and top of cylinder. Make a plastic wedge as Bill suggests using nylon or P.E. The best way to have removed your head would have been to remove the injector nozzle, stick a skinny screwdriver into the hole to feel the top of the piston then turn the flywheel until the piston is at the bottom. Then, use some gear oil and put it in the hole where the nozzle fits. Replace the nozzle, loosen the four bolts holding the head and cylinder about 1/4", place some towels at the bottom, and crank the engine over with the ignition. The head will blow off without force. However, now that the seal is cracked, you will likely have to continue using wedges.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 November 2014 at 8:31pm
The head made it to the machine shop and they cleaned up the valve seats and checked it out. Everything is good now -except- they found compromised structure between the exhaust port and the adjacent water jacket. He said if it was on the intake side, he would seal it with epoxy but did not believe epoxy would hold up on the exhaust side due to temp. Any suggestions? he told me to look for a replacement head body... thx, john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 November 2014 at 1:07am
Yes. Silicon bronze brazing to exhaust side.
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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 November 2014 at 3:58pm
Found another motor-head guru. Not looking good; he said welding this spot is not a option.... paper thin metal and not accessible w/ the tig.
He said a long shot would be to drill an access hole though the outer body into the water jacket to access to compromised area from behind. Bead-blast and apply epoxy from behind. Then close the access hole with a pipe tap.
Crinmar said head-bodies are no longer available from Buhk.
I've got that sinking feeling....
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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 November 2014 at 4:06pm
How about that fellow parting his boat out? Perhaps you could acquire the engine from him. Just an idea.
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Mike V View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike V Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 November 2014 at 8:46pm
Can you send me a picture. I will check with they guys at UWP. These guys do very good work. If anyone can fix it , it would be them. I watched them repair a broken crankshaft from a ship. They are very popular with the local shops.
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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 November 2014 at 10:58pm
Checked w/ MikeM earlier today and the engine and sail drive already sold.
Keith from Crinmar wants to take a look at mine so the dead head is on its way to Ontario.... Thanks for the offer MikeV but its boxed and gone.
js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 November 2014 at 8:57am
Dieter Adolphs had a complete engine/ SD for sale. PM me if you want his contact info

Edited by Bill Layton - 19 November 2014 at 8:58am
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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 December 2014 at 10:03pm
Bill , thanks for the info on the forestay.
I'm going to pull the engine and I could use any hints or tips or removal sequence that you have to make this easier.
I read a post with a trick for lifting the engine but the details were not in the post. If you would PM me or email me at fatjohnz28 at gmail dot com
much apprciated, john
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 March 2015 at 11:30pm
The replacement engine has broken the bank for this season. If anyone is desperate to get rid of a racing main with a season left in it, I might be interested. js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 March 2015 at 1:55pm
What did you finally do in your engine replacement? Did you abandon the Bukh, or did you re-build yours?
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fatjohnz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 March 2015 at 2:05pm
I contacted Dieter as Bill suggested. Dieter had pulled the Bukh from his Laser28 and replaced it. I'm going to swap in the salvage engine(and hope it lasts for a while), and I'm going to attempt to rebuild the original motor. js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 March 2015 at 2:15pm
Great idea. I am a strong believer in that little engine. I did have to re-build mine a few years ago, but it was not that difficult and it runs perfectly and starts immediately every time. Of all the modern sail drive/engine combinations, I still think the Bukh is the best for our Laser.
I dream of swapping out the diesel for a 10-15 hp 4-cycle outboard power head adapted to the Bukh sail drive to try saving about 50 lbs, but don't really have the time for it and I just love the economy and reliability of the Bukh diesel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 March 2015 at 7:40pm
{removed to continue thread}

Edited by fatjohnz - 22 April 2020 at 8:38am
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