Preventative Maintenance Tip for Cooling System |
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Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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The water alarm that comes with the engine works fine. Ask Chris who just posted the pic of his clogged system. His alarm went off first so he knew there was a problem. Putting in a filter won't help this situation because it's sediment that collects at the lowest point and most restricted point on the engine. The only way to be sure your not clogged is to take it apart and check it. It's not a huge job so if your unsure, take it apart and verify it.
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Seawolf
Commodore Joined: 15 March 2012 Location: missoula Status: Offline Points: 118 |
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John,
Have you picked out a gauge and temp alarm for your boat? If so I am curious what you choose, I would like to add a peace of mind to my boat. Thanks. |
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John Mills
Commodore Joined: 01 February 2016 Status: Offline Points: 122 |
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Thanks for the info and pics, it is shocking how it was blocked , mine will get done this winter . I am adding an additional bolt on engine temperature gauge and alarm as I do not trust the rudimentary system the boat came with to do much beyond tell you its game over . 100 bucks worth of insurance .
Edited by John Mills - 30 May 2016 at 12:21pm |
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Unplugged
# 164 NOTL |
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Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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This blockage which occurs on nearly all older engines that have not had their cylinder head completely rebuilt is very common and the result is that it overheats the head and blows the head gasket. It also causes the head to warp. So when we rebuild them the deck on the head must be milled to get it flat again.
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Winner
Commodore Joined: 07 September 2011 Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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The issue with engine overheating has been discussed in several other threads as well, but since this thread is dedicated to this topic I thought I'd post my recent experience here.
It has been said that internal engine corrosion only happens in salt water boats or boats winterized without antifreeze (i.e. dry). To the best of my knowledge, my boat has always been freshwater; but as the fourth (at least) owner, I can't verify the steps taken for winterization in the past. First the disclaimer: while I do like the Bukh engine overall, especially for it's reliability in starting and ease of operation, I think it has one serious, potentially fatal, flaw, and that is the narrow passages at key points in the cooling system. I feel this is a major issue not only because of the ease in which these passages can become plugged, but because of the potentially disastrous consequences without any outward signs of trouble. Not a robust design IMHO. One such point is the elbow at the fitting where the cooling water from the engine merges into the exhaust elbow. The fitting, as previously discussed by Frank in another post, is only 1/4" ID and could easily be plugged by any debris or flakes of engine corrosion. The solution is to install an inline water filter in the hose between the thermostat and the inlet port to the exhaust manifold on the port side. A filter like the Jabsco 36400-0000 does the job nicely: http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|51|2234255|2234258&id=121067 The other benefit is that the clear casing is another place where you can check to ensure water flow. Be sure that the hose clamps are not too tight (crushing the barb and blocking water flow) and not too loose (allowing air in which would reduce water flow) and that the filter is oriented the right way for water flow! I have had this filter in my engine for 4 years now and it has been very helpful in trapping debris. The other weak spot in the system, described above, is the one I just dealt with. On our first motor out of the boatyard this year after 20 minutes of running at 1700 rpm in smooth water, the engine overheat alarm went off. There was no other indication of any problem as cooling water was coming out of the boat exhaust normally. After checking the hoses and thermostat, I traced the problem to the water inlet port below the air intake on the starboard side. To remove this inlet port housing you'll need to remove the starboard bulkhead (unless you are a contortionist). There are two bolts underneath you'll need to loosen with a 10mm box wrench to remove the inlet housing. When you remove the housing, water (and maybe sediment) will gush out so have paper towel handy. The pictures below show what came out of my engine. I was astonished at the amount of flaked metal sediment! The picture with the paper towel is showing only 15% or so of the total amount that came out. The inlet pipe was so densely clogged that I had to chip the sediment out. https://goo.gl/photos/S5gQsL83bbgWegSd8 I also highly recommend that after cleaning the inlet pipe, you flush the head cooling passages. To do this it is best to simply remove the thermostat housing and pour water in from the top, allowing it to flush out the bottom. I did this and LOTS more metal sediment came out. I also used my finger to plug the bottom while filling with water to the top of the head which I think allowed for a better flush. It's also recommended you use some sort of scraping tool to reach up into the passages from underneath to make sure there is no more flaking metal that will easily come off and recreate the problem. Once complete, you must cut a small paper gasket (I used 1/64" paper gasket material bought at Canadian Tire) and lightly coat with sealant on both sides of the paper gasket (I used Permatex Form-A-Gasket #2). Blue Loctite on the threads of the two 10mm bolts. Reassemble the valve fitting with gasket and bolts in place, then place underneath en masse and tighten bolts. I let the Loctite cure for 24 hours prior to running the engine, although this may not be necessary. The thermostat housing is best reinstalled with anti-sieze compound on the four allen bolts. I plan on checking this again in two years to see if I have had any further sediment accumulation. If you have never checked this on your engine, I highly recommend doing so, especially since it may clog and overheat your engine with no outward signs of trouble before it is too late.
Edited by Winner - 21 May 2016 at 11:26pm |
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Chris
Eclipse #240 Thunder Bay, ON |
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Marc97gt
Rookie Joined: 27 October 2011 Location: Pasadena, MD Status: Offline Points: 14 |
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Just a preventative maintenance note on the cooling system.
While taking the boat around to the yard for winter lay up the DV8 ran fine but the temp gage would spike up from 120F to 180+F with load on the engine. Pulled the thermostat out and ran the boat around to the yard. Spoke to Keith at Crinmar and he suggested boiling the thermostat in vinegar for 20 minutes to clean off the crud, in the event the problem was due to a stuck thermostat. Launched the boat this Spring with the cleaned up thermostat installed and the temp spiked up after about 5 minutes of running. I pulled the thermostat and ran the engine lightly to keep speed at 3.2 kts. Cylinder was very warm to the touch. I pulled the feeder hose that connects to the right angle fitting on the bottom of the cylinder and the thermostat block , then blew through the hose and got some air through but it was clear there was a blockage somewhere. Got the boat home and pulled off the fitting on the bottom of the cylinder and found it was plugged with flaked rust. Cleaned it out and installed it with a home made gasket. Everything is fine. Just says after 27 years of use, it needed cleaning. If you have not checked yours, might want to. |
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