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Consideration for purchasing a Laser 28

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    Posted: 16 August 2011 at 12:33am
Greetings, I am looking for advice on what common problem areas to look at when purchasing a  Laser 28. I read through the Maintenance section, and see that deck rot can occur around the foward hatch, Keel joint may fail if the keel bolts have not been checked regularly and that if the boat seen salt water use corrosion can occur in the cooling system. Other items to check? I am talking about stuff specific to the laser. Rigging, electronics are all common items to check on any sailboat.
Also one other question on the engine, if you see oil around the base of the engine, is that a indication of trouble? We are talking about enough to mop up with a couple of paper towels. The exhaust does not smoke and the oil level on the dipstick seems to hold at the same level.  
 
thanks in advance
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WarBird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 August 2011 at 8:25am
The engine is a single cylinder motor. Every time the piston moves away from top dead center (combustion and exhaust) it move toward the crank case compressing the air there. the breather (engine oil fill) releases this pressure and a small amount of oil vapor.The vapor condenses and settles, collecting int the lowest places whick happen to be those engine mount recesses. keep a roll of paper towel handy and wipe up after a longer delivery.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unnamed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 August 2011 at 11:52pm
Thank-you for the information, puts my mind at ease!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WarBird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 September 2011 at 11:40am
One otherthing. This is in regard to motoring and a clean transom. The exhaust,right onthe transom causes the transom to accumulate a little exhaust soot. Fitting a PVC 135 degree elbow into the exhaust opening and facing the outlet down towards the water reduces the soot greatly. The outlet fitted has changed over the years so you will have to experiment a little. 4000/4200 holds just fine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 September 2011 at 11:54am
That's a cool idea warbird , I'm going to try that out.
I have another little tip that I'm not sure where to post so I'll just put it here. I have, on occasion, had the engine running rougher than normal at idle and noticed poor water flow (apparent overheating). I have found that some debris may get pulled into the thru hull restricting the flow. Luckily I have a 'Y' valve on the incoming water line for winterizing so I shut down the engine, take a deep breath, switch the 'Y' valve, and blow air out through the thru hull to clear the debris.
js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WarBird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 September 2011 at 1:07pm
I got that one from Banana Wind #233. He had #169 , I bought it from him. You don't need a perfect fit and may have to shave a little off the next size up to push into the throughhull exhaust outlet. Mind that a too small may restrict exhaust flow but on #169 I never saw that problem. #233 seems to have a larger outlet. They cost $.69 to $2.39 or something. When they get bumped off with a dinghy or inflateable, cheap and easy to replace, onthe spot or years end. They reduce sooting on transom 90%. Looking at our Chi-Mac pictures from 2008, Eclipse is black across the transom waterline. we put that boat in the water at Chicago with aclean, prepped hull. We ran an hour to the start and 2-3 hours charging during the race and the transom was sooted pretty good.   WarBird ,#169, with the elbow never had more than a light film after 4-5 hour deliveries.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unnamed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 September 2011 at 3:37pm
Nice idea that works for any boat. This gave me another question, the L28 I am looking at does not have a tach, so I was curious if this was typical, if so what is it's typical cruising speed (Figure no current or wind)  and what RPMs would that be running at?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WarBird Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 September 2011 at 5:58pm
I think wide open they run about 6kt, maybe 6.4. Back it off to 3/4 throttle, the engine is smoother, quieter and you only lose about 1/2 knot. Engine should last alot longer too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 September 2011 at 9:20pm
i agree with the 3/4 throttle warbird. no engine should be run flat out. consider that sailing upwind, optimum hull speed is about 5.8(?)
after that you are trying to make the hull plane which requires a lot of extra energy. js
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unnamed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2011 at 2:30pm
Ok, another question;  on the port side where the shrouds meet the deck, there is a slight depression with some crazing around the block that goes through the Deck to the chain plates. It looks like someone may have over tightened the bolts. So I am thinking soft spot or maybe the problem will fix it self if the bolts were lossened a bit. Any one else had this experience?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2011 at 3:05pm
That's generally a sign that the port v-berth bulkhead has become unbonded from the underside of the deck. Look closely there should be no gap and the bulkhead should be glued tightly to the underside of the deck....when the bonding fails the chain plate area on the deck develops cracking and that compressed look. Also check to be sure where the inside tie-rod is attached to the liner that it hasn't pulled away from the side of the hull. You see a 2" flange there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WJRyan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2011 at 3:26pm
Any chance we could get a picture of what it should look like Bill? This sounds like a topic that could use a 1000 words!   Thanks, :)bill
Bill Ryan,

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unnamed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2011 at 3:34pm

Hmmm, Sounds bad. Is this fixable?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2011 at 4:42pm
I don't have a pic handy, but it's very simple. Go look at both wood v-berth bulkheads where they are bonded under the deck.... see if they are up tight against the underside of the deck and then try to wiggle them....if they move around there will definitely be a gap. The you know you have to re-epoxy them.... i.e, clean up the surfaces and rebond with epoxy putty. Its not a diffuicult job. Best done with mast down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2011 at 4:53pm
One more possibility of the depression on the deck where the shroud plates are: On the underside of the deck there is a corresponding chunk of aluminum held tight to the underside of the deck. I have seen where a tiny amount of water got through the deck and worked on this aluminum block to cause corrosion to its topside between the block and the underside of the deck. The corrosion causes a swelling and pulls the top plate down into the topside of the deck, making it look like it had been over-tighten from below. Remembering that the rig acts under tension, the depression should not occur unless the structure is compromised, as Bill pointed out, or there is corrosion between the referenced block and the deck.

Frank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote unnamed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2011 at 6:14pm
Thanks for the information, I will take a look at this weekend.  Another question; There is another laser that I am looking at which is a newer version with the fiberglass hull. Is there any advantages of the kevlar over the fiberglass? and what is the weight difference?
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2011 at 6:34pm
If you an on sailing in the vicinity of pirates armed with AK 47s, then definitely go with the Kevlar. Otherwise I would go with the boat best maintained and with the best upgrades, all which cost a lot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatjohnz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2011 at 9:05pm
fletch speaks wise words. for every hour of racing there seems to be an hour of maintenance. find a solid boat and keep her well. sj
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hoodoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 April 2012 at 2:59pm
Hi,

Frank wrote:
« I have seen where a tiny amount of water got through the deck and worked on this aluminum block to cause corrosion to its topside between the block and the underside of the deck».

Is there a way to stop this corrosion? Or the only solution is to have some new ones built by a machine shop?

JF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 April 2012 at 3:12pm
Yes remove the deck casting, clean all old sealant from it and re-install with new sealant. Thats is, if it is leaking. 
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