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Removing Diesel Adding Outboard

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    Posted: 21 April 2010 at 9:25am
Good morning all:

The 30-year-old 8 hp Buhk is being removed from Andiamo! - sacrilege I know. I am putting an outboard motor mount on the stern, and would like to know if anyone has done this before, and if they have any particular advice.

My concern is that the stern is relatively light structurally, and if the constant flexing as a result of the outboard hanging out there will be an issue. Should I reinforce the stern?

To mollify all those who would never think of such a thing, I will have the engine rebuilt and replaced, and the offending engine removed from the stern next year. When we do race we use PHRF, not class rules, so no issue there. As well, we are planning to ocean sail this summer in Passamaquoddy Bay (tidal range 7.5 m) and like the idea of more power...

Edited by Bill Layton - 13 April 2015 at 4:25pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 April 2010 at 10:05am
Yes we did this last year to a boat here in montreal. We put a 3/4" piece of plywood inside the transom (18" x 18") as a backup plate. and on the outside we put another 3/4" piece of plywood painted white (a little bigger in dimension than the motor mount flange) and then thru bolted the engine bracket thru it all and it worked very well while the old Bukh was getting rebuilt. FYI we used a 6hp 2 stroke Yamaha 2005 model regular shaft with the regular prop and it pushed the boat to hull speed easily. Hope this helps
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 April 2010 at 10:22am
I'll add my reply here as well just for all to see:

I think you will be fine if you use large backup brackets on both sides (particularly on the inside) One note of interest, is when we did this here in Montreal, the fellow left his saildrive in place and he still won races with the outboard on the transom. It doesn't appear to affect the performance of the boat any and its the easiest/fastest/ least expensive solution to keeping your boat powered. I'm currently rebuilding 2 Bukh engines now. Parts are indeed getting harder to get.

I really like the motor setup on the new Farr 25.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stQiqek24ro&feature=youtu.be&a

An alternative method for engine replacement, the downside is the glass work involved.

Cheers Bill


Edited by Bill Layton - 28 April 2010 at 10:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lsr28 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 April 2010 at 11:06am
when I fully restored my engine last year, I had the chance to have the "help" of Erik Jørgensen of LSM-Diesel [info@lsm-diesel.dk] parts were priced good (Danish Crown vs Can$ helps I think). Shipping form DK was also very fast (took about 6 days to Canada). No shortage of parts there...
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 April 2010 at 11:11am
The Farr 25 idea is awesome. Do you know if the bracket is a custom item? I would be willing to try the idea.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 April 2010 at 12:25pm
I get my parts thru the Canadian Distributor Keith Strutt in Kingston Ontario 613-634-8100, He has most parts in stock and pricing is same as you will get from Denmark.

There isn't any more info on that Farr 25 than can be found on google, but eventually I suspect their method and equipment will become available thru someone
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bal149 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2010 at 9:55pm
with all due respect and after having owned a few boats with outboards- the plywood panel should be epoxied to the transom. These new 4 stroke motors generate a lot of torque and can twist that hanger right around. If you are planning to put a small 2 stroke on the boat it will work but only if there is a slight breeze and no waves. To power a laser 28 you need a motor with an extra long foot and the last time I looked these were  8 hp and up.- try holding on to the motor and you will get an idea of the twisting force that can be generated.
 If the diesel can be repaired why bother?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bal149 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2010 at 10:30pm
 if I didn't turn you off with my posting about outboards-the main advantage of which, when they stop working ,one can just unbolt them and let them sink to the bottom- i have a Nissan 9.8 four stroke,4 blade prop electric starter and 25 inch foot with 60 hrs of use- I'll even throw in an adjustable hanger- but I don't recommend it unless you are absolutely convinced that this is the way to go.
 Boulet lemelin can make you a sail drive from an outboard and Johansen will sell you a Honda powered sail drive- $5000.00 or so
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 October 2010 at 10:22am
Do you have a link for Johansen?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2010 at 12:51am
Why go away from the Bukh? This is a great little engine. I just rebuilt mine and converted it to fresh-water cooling with a heat exchanger. I have used outboards before, but if you are using it for any more than getting to and from the race starting line, the diesel is far better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bal149 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2010 at 1:28am
my mistake for the name-wwwsaildrive280.com
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill Layton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2010 at 10:20am
saildrive280.com doesn't exist anymore. It hasn't for a while now. If you read post #2 in this thread you'll see that a 6hp 2-stroke worked very well. It not only got the L28 to hull speed it did it in a good sea as well. And this was with a regular shaft and prop. Needless to say with a long shaft and the available high pitched sailboat prop it would perform even better. This outboard weighed 60 Lbs, whereas the 4 stroke version of the same weighed a little over 100 Lbs. Which I'm assuming is why the Farr25 comes with a 2-stroke only, maybe for compartment size reasons as well. But as frfletch mentions above the range with a diesel is incomparable to any gas power engine

Edited by Bill Layton - 08 October 2010 at 10:29am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tprice Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2010 at 10:34am
Bill,
   When I had my Laser 28 on the Chesapeake, we were lucky to have a Bukh dealer and repair service in Galesville (30 min from Annap.). Waterway, I think, was the name of the company. High prices but intelligent and knowledgable work and plenty of advice for free!
   I wonder if he still supplies parts and service? I would certainly recommend Waterway.
   TP
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2010 at 1:17pm
I'm not sure about the states, but parts can still be obtained via Crinmar Marine in Kingston, Ontario (Keith Strutt), and the UK agent. Both of these people are knowledgeable. I don't know what is wrong with your Bukh, but unless you dropped it from a 10 storey building the type of parts that it is likely to need should mostly be able to be fixed. Replacement bits such as rings are actually manufactured in Italy by another company and those rings clearly fit other engines as well, so they will continue to be available. Bearings, likely unnecessary, are mostly generic as well as are the seals. The head (and head gasket)that houses the valves, etc, is a critical piece and if it becomes to badly corroded such that it cannot be repaired, then that item is truly a Bukh part and will not be found elsewhere. Looking at the head of my engine is what drove me to converting it to freshwater cooling via a heat exchanger. That is not a very difficult conversion and I'm happy to help anyone interested in pursuing that path.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2010 at 1:28pm
To the owner of Andiamo, if you have not yet removed your Bukh engine, I have tripped upon some very helpful techniques in doing this, though they rely on your boat having opening windows in the cockpit leading to the quarter birth and sail locker. I learned from Bill that these windows were optional and that not all Lasers have them, but if yours does, you can take the pain out of engine removal and replacement. I'm happy to outline the techniques and sequence of this if you wish.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Guests Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2010 at 3:06pm
To bring you up-to-date on Andiamo, the Bukh was removed this spring and the block and head are corroded from the 25+ years in seawater. I sold the engine and saildrive to a fellow clubmember for spares. There is a discussion on the removal of the engine, which I read AFTER removal. I was able to manhandle the engine out of the boat using block and tackle. I epoxied a backing plate of 3/4" plywood to the stern on the inside and mounted a heavy duty mount for the 9.8 longshaft Nissan 4-stroke. This engine has remote controls for starting and shifting. I mounted the remote in the starboard lazarette. The prop was changed to a low speed prop, yet I get 25% more speed, especially in headwinds. Now there is no oil in the bilge, more storage and no drag. We race PHRF so no issues. So far - so good!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bal149 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2010 at 8:29pm
curious-how did you convert the engine to an isolated cooling system?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 October 2010 at 9:46pm
From 4" stock T-6 aluminum, I turned a pulley for an A-section best that fits to the top of the flywheel via the flywheel hold-down nut. On the port side of the engine, if you look closely, you will see several female threaded bosses that take an 8mm bolts or threaded studs. These were used to bold in place a piece of 3/16" x 3" angle aluminum, trimmed to fit such that the top L comes directly under the alloy plate portion of the crankcase just below the flywheel. To this I bolted another 3" x 3" angle to provide vertical surface to which I bolted the second pump. I used an Obedorfer centrifigul with pedestal base for this. From the 4" stock, I turned another pulley to fit onto the pump and trimmed it down to 3 1/2" diameter. This was not to gain more pump rpm, but to give more clearance to the sliding hatch door on the port side quarterbirth. An A-section 27" belt connects the two pulleys that I mounted high enough above the flywheel so that one could still use the rope pull start on the flywheel if necessary. To allow clearance for the knot of the pull-rope, the belt clears the top of the flywheel by about 5/8" or 30mm. I have photos of this arrangement that I would be happy to send if you provide me with your email address.

San Juan Engineering made the heat exchanger with integral expansion tank. It is 9" long, and about 3" in diameter. It fits to the front of the engine directly behind the access stairs. On the front of the engine there are 4 studs (either 6 or 8mm) that fix the steel mounting bracket to the engine. I replaced these studs with longer studs so that the studs could be used to also hold two pieces of 1/4" x 2" pieces of aluminum situated vertically on which to mount the tank, where the radiator cap must become the highest point of the cooling system.

I used the Bukh's own Johnson pump to circulate the raw water that now comes from the sea, to the heat exchanger, and then back to the regular cooling water outlet fitting at the exhaust elbow.

The centrifugal pump circulates the coolant pulling it off the bottom of the heat exchanger, driving it to the engine up at the thermostat area just the way the raw water used to go, and then back into the top of the heat exchanger.

That's it! If you supply me with an email address, I will send some pics which are a better explanation of it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 October 2010 at 6:37pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bal149 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 October 2010 at 11:17pm
thanks for the pictures-very nice work. A freshwater cooling system gets rid of one of the Bukh's 2 big problems-dissimilar metals being one and the lack of an oil filter the other.
Your installation is well designed and nicely fabricated-the way you worked out belt tension quite simple and quite effective.
 I will definitely look into doing this-my boat is sailed in fresh water but raw water cooling is in my opinion a bad thing. The Bukh was designed as a lifeboat motor and in that case it might make sense to take shortcuts with the cooling but your installation is a much better approach.
 A new head is 4k-if available
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