water infiltration |
Post Reply |
Author | |
Guests
Guest |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 11 May 2009 at 10:57am |
hi every body is someone could give me informations for my problem of water infiltration i think by the "livet de pont"(i don't know the english term) , this is the joint hull-deck ? |
|
lucgmix
Crew Joined: 30 June 2007 Status: Offline Points: 43 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi Yvado,
I was blaming the hull-deck joint before I did the hose test. I discovered quite a few weak spots (leaking) where hardware is coming through the deck. Have someone poor water with a hose on deck but only small sections at a time and watch for leaks from inside the boat. I hope it helps, |
|
Luc Gregoire
Colibri 224 Tactician |
|
JFG104
Rookie Joined: 15 March 2009 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 6 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Are the original shrouds 3/16 or 7/32 on L28?
Thanks. |
|
frfletch
Commodore Joined: 13 May 2008 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 365 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Shrouds are 7/32.
|
|
Frank Fletcher
|
|
Cayuga
Crew Joined: 20 October 2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 45 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I'm trying to sort out the running rigging on #197, which we just got this season. I need some advice on halyards and clutches. A previous owner of my boat replaced the wire/rope halyards with all rope. I'm pretty sure the clutches are whatever came with the boat; I can't identify them. The genoa halyard is 5/16 or 3/8", but there is a fat cover added at the clutch. I assume they were having problems with the halyard slipping in the clutch, but this is not a good solution. The cover jams in the sheave at the mast bottom. Every time we drop the jib, the foredeck has to run up and haul on the luff to get it down.
The spinnaker halyard is grossly oversized, maybe 1/2", and gets a lot of friction running through the clutch and the sheaves, making takedowns unnecessarily slow. The (fat) splice at the shackle sometimes seems to jam at the upper mast sheave. This can be downright scary when the chute doesn't want to come down. I want to replace both halyards, looking for suggestions on rope type and diameter. I'll be racing PHRF only for the foreseeable future, so any class restrictions don't apply. Are the original clutches worth saving should those be replaced too? It seems like all of these problems came from bad solutions to slipping clutches. Thanks, Andy |
|
aquaphat
Rookie Joined: 21 January 2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Andy,
I would recommend going with a 5/16" diameter dyneema based double braid w/ a stopper ball for the spinnaker halyard. I would also recommend using 5/16" dia jib halyard but would use either an SK-78 dyneema or a vectran based core to reduce creep. Depending on your application and use, I would recommend stripping them if you are looking for a grand prix setup. If you have any additional questions or would like any quotes or help in putting together a package for your program please feel free to contact me anytime at: Eric.Rigtek@gmail.com (805) 469-7330 Eric Schlageter |
|
ben varley
Rookie Joined: 17 November 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 5 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
We have just taken the original engine out of our boat which involved separating and dropping the saildrive before sliding the engine forward and then lifting the saildrive through the hole.
Having previously found it difficult to re-build the saildrive gearbox with the engine/saildrive installed in the boat we would like to rebuild the engine/saildrive outside the boat then install the whole lot. Has anybody tried doing this? Did the geometry work? Any advice would be much appreciated. Ben |
|
Guests
Guest |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi Ben:
I am considering the same. Please provide a few more details on how you got the saildrive disconnected, and how you got the engine out of the boat - its a heavy little bugger I suspect. Mike |
|
khardy
Commodore Joined: 22 June 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 132 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I replaced my sail drive about two years ago. I do not believe you can remove or replace the saildrive / motor as a unit. There isn’t enough clearance.
First, make sure you have both the shop manual and the original instructions that came with the boat. There are several diagrams that will help. I have both in PDF if you need them - PM me your e-mail. Invest in a quality torque wrench – you need this to properly torque the four bolts that mate the sail drive to the engine. The last thing you want to do is over torque the bolt, have it break, and leave the threaded part stuck in the engine. To get the motor out I used a 2 X 4 cut into two lengths. Tie the first 2 x 4 to the engine aligned for and aft. It needs to extend some distance aft of the engine and also extend far enough forward of the engine to stick out the front of the engine compartment (where the stairs would be.) Tie it as tight as you can so that its firm against the flywheel. The other 2 x 4 goes across the aft side of the engine and under the first 2 x 4 such that it sticks out the engine compartment’s side access doors. This second 2 x 4 isn’t tied you need to be able to move it as you slide the engine out. Now you need three people, one lifts the front of the first 2 x 4, one on one side of the second 2 x 4 and one on the other side of the second 2 x 4. Before you start completely remove the staircase from the boat and take the table out of the boat or lay it on the forward berth. You need the space to move around. Good luck. |
|
ben varley
Rookie Joined: 17 November 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 5 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Firstly, apologies for hijacking this thread - this was not intended so if anyone knows how to move it to it's own area please let me know!
khardy - that's a great idea but we have already got the engine out. We removed the four bolts that go up through the saildrive collar to the engine block and also the other two bolts that keep the collar on the saildrive. We then also used two lengths of 2x4, firstly to leverage the engine off the mounting bolts and then as rails (running fore and aft) on which we slid the engine forward out of the engine compartment. This work well for us but I can see that your technique would be better. We then made two strops running fore and aft and attached to the engine sub-frame. We lifted the engine out using the main halyard and lowered it over the side onto a cradle we had made. The engine weighs about 80lbs and was manageable with three of us. The problem we anticipate is in re-building the internals of the saildrive. Has anyone got any tips for how best to do this? Many thanks. |
|
WJRyan
Commodore Joined: 12 February 2008 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 223 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Greetings everyone! As I work to stop the engine temp buzzer frm buzzing I turned to Bill Brock who, as always, graciously guided me and supplied the name of North Jersey Marine Enterprises in Clifton, NJ. However the phone has been disconnected and a Google search turned up nothing.
However if you call Canada's very own Keith Strutt at 613-634-8100 he knows the engine, has parts in store, and is patient and kind with newbies! It appears we are down to a single NA dealer for the Bukh engine parts. If you know of others let make a reference list! I hope this helps! :)bill (#155) |
|
Bill Ryan,
Room4Crew, #155 |
|
Cayuga
Crew Joined: 20 October 2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 45 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I was able to get Bukh parts from Bob Bain at North Jersey Marine last winter. This is from an email dated February '09:
NORTH JERSEY MARINE PO Box 2862 CLIFTON, NJ. 07015 Dear valued customer, as of FEB. 15th, 2009, we have new phone and fax numbers as follows: PHONE: 973-667-1730 FAX : 973-667-1831 E-MAIL: RBAINNJMDIESELS@HOTMAIL.COM Please note E-MAIL is the best method of contact, followed by FAX then Phone. Phone messages are typically returned the evening they are received so please leave both day and evening phone numbers. NORTH JERSEY MARINE - Your LEHMAN and BUKH marine diesel specialists for over 25 years! Best Regards, the crew @ NJM. |
|
WJRyan
Commodore Joined: 12 February 2008 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 223 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Had my first bump and yes I was on starboard however the toe rail was smooshed.... any one know of toe rails available and/or alternatives you have discovered? Any guidance would be most appreciated! Thanks, :)bill (#155)
|
|
Bill Ryan,
Room4Crew, #155 |
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |