Rudder Solutions |
Post Reply |
Author | |
Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 01 November 2002 at 3:56pm |
Being part of the former build team of the Laser 28 I'd like to make a few comments regarding rudder play. The rudder bushings are made from UHMW (ultra high molecular weight plastic). They don't really wear out so you should never have to replace them.
For the lower bushing, if you notice some undesirable side to side play just put a hose clamp around the fiberglass tube inside the boat. This will allow you to adjust the tension upon the rudder shaft by exerting pressure on the outside of the bushing. It's a quick simple fix and works perfectly every time. The upper bushing is a little more complicated. It must be removed and reinstalled with shim stock wrapped around it's OD or some of us have used masking tape. The idea is to increase the OD (outside diameter) so when reinstalled the ID will become a little smaller. Be careful because when reinstalling into the deck casting it could be too tight. Start with small amounts and work up. It doesn't take much. Rudder shaft vertical end play is set so that the rudder spade is as close to the hull as possible. At the factory we installed a UHMW washer on the rudder shaft before we installed the rudder into the hull. This made for a small gap between the rudder and the hull when fully installed. Once the rudder was in place we added more of these washers on top of the rudder shaft so they rested upon the deck casting. Finally when the tiller casting was installed with the bolt going thru the rudder shaft, vertical end play was able to be determined by the number of washers necessary. Too many washers and the rudder is stiff, and with not enough washers there is too much end play. These washers can be made by your local machine shop. One area of concern is the rudder/tiller casting. This is the top cap casting that bolts thru the rudder shaft. |
|
Guests
Guest |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Bill: Could you comment on how one should align the top of the rudder with the slope of the hull. I have noticed that on Andanzas the gap is larger at the front and at the back tends to touch the hull. The only way we have found to change this was to lower the rudder by removing a top washer. Unfortunately this increases the gap in front and turns it into something of a weed catcher
|
|
Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Andrew, The deck casting needs to be moved aft a little. You'll need to remove your rudder so that the deck casting can be removed and all the sealant cleaned off. You'll then see that the hole is slightly oversized so that the casting can be moved around a bit. However you will need to elongate the fastener holes fore and aft so you can reposition the casting so that the top of the rudder spade lines up with the hull contours. Once the casting has been set in the proper position, pencil in the perimeter of it and re-install it with sealant. Also note that we used washers as spacers underneath the casting to provide alignment of the bushing with the rudder shaft. This will all make sense once you have it apart. Goodluck. |
|
Guests
Guest |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I agree with Andrew's comment about the weed catcher. My rudder is fairly even in alignment, but there is still the inevitable weed catcher gap. I picked up alot of "green floss" this season and we are considering a weed cutter or catcher forward of the rudder post. Has anyone tried this? I have seen an assortment of blades and small posts installed on some of the larger IMS boats. |
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |