deep rudder wanted

Does anyone have have a Laser 28 deep rudder that they would like to sell? Please let me know if so.

Thanks.

Ah yes! But was it faster? I remember it being said that the deep rudder option while deeper, provided no additional wetted surface or drag. To achieve that would require that it was either thinner, narrower, or both.

No progress yet. I can modify, etc, but that would definitely increase the drag bucket. I have no trouble making the rudder if I can get the offsets. Farr provided me with offsets to the keel, but they would not release the rudder details.

On any given foil, its shape is determined by specific numbers of the half section. Lets take a common foil (wing) that is a straight taper. If a straight taper, one only needs the exact shape of the base (say top of keel) and the shape of the bottom (say foot of keel). For fun, lets assign 10 measurement stations to each starting at the leading edge. Lets space each of them in 10% increments from the leading edge. Most of our sailing foils have their fullest sections about 40% back from the leading edge. If one drew s center line from the center of the leading edge to the center of the trailing edge, then the half values are the distance from the center line to the outside of the foil at each measurement station. So, when shaping a foil with a straight taper, one makes a template (female) that goes over the foil to be shaped with each measurement station marked on each side. He also makes a solid foil shape for the foot and attaches it to the foot of the foil to be shaped. Then one just trims the material between the measurement stations using a straight edge. I number each station say 1-10 or whatever, then use a piece of 1 1/2' x 1 1/2" aluminum angle as the straight edge. If it is hollow I fill it. If it is proud, one sands it off.

When making a foil from scratch, I use foam and a hot wire strung tight on a bow tensioned by Spanish windlass. This is attached to 12V DC or AC. A car battery with jumpers works fine. Then with one person each side of the bow, set the hot wire down on measurement station zero, and progress it. I call out the station from the leading edge position such as zero, one half, one, one and a half, two, etc, and ask the trailing edge person to keep up.   When done, you have a near perfect foil. I first used this process is building model airplane wings. With a straight foil, or a straight tapered foil, one only needs two patterns. Top bottom, or with a wind, inside and wingtip.

Page 663 will give an example of what fletch is talking about.  The book can be found in some library's.  In Buffalo your not allowed to borrow it, viewing only.

For additional information, you could google 'NACA airfoil'. When I search, a wikpedia article for National Aviation Council of Aeronautics is first on the list and a airfoils tools website is second on the list.
For example, my Merit25 keel/rudder profiles were NACA 0010; a predefined profile. So at the locations were I wanted a template, I would measure the chord length and pop that number in a tool that would generate offsets of the foil vs.increment from the leading edge (as fletch said).
If I make templates for the Laser28, I might see if I can back into one of the NACA profiles to get more data points for the template

also keep your crew on the rail until after you round the mark. Crew tends to get off the rail in preparation for kite hoisting. In heavy air its much better to keep the entire crew on the rail until you are turned down even though your kite may not get up as quickly.

I wish I wasn't reading this post but I grounded the rudder on something hard yesterday. When she came off it felt like the the rudder top is binding firmly on the hull especially as the tiller comes through center.
I assume that is bent rudder post? I was going to haul to inspect but I suppose I can just reach under the water and feel if the rudder top is in contact with the hull. Anyone have a spare rudder ... ?

The construction materials listed for the new rudder have epoxy upgrade and fabric upgrade. Are either of these important? Thanks in advance as always, john

If you are having to "pull" the tiller and you hear a scraping sound the odds are pretty good it is bent.  I have one of those!  When we dropped it the local experts shared others experiences with trying to straighten a post and the recommendation was to trim the top trailing edge instead and to leave the post alone.  I have pictures of the repair and glass work done before I decided to get a new rudder instead, let me know and I will share.  Sorry for the hit, I know how scary it was for me!  - bill