boom mounting spinakker pole

I forget the schedule, its around here somewhere. Its actual measurements are 4.5" OD and 4" ID, Wall thickness 1/4" White external plumbing plastic pipe. 2 pieces cut at 3.5" long then both edges routered. I see this stuff in the US everywhere but never see it in Canada.

On a somewhat related topic, I followed the lead of a local sonar rigger and made a simple support for the forward end of the boom. I drilled a couple of holes though the boom, a few inches back from the goosneck. I then put a piece of 1/4" threaded rod through the hole so it sticks out about 3" on either side, put nuts on either side to hold it in place, and attached stopper balls to the ends, using one nut, then the ball, then a lock nut inside the stopper ball. I covered the remaining threads with some shroud cover. The pole clips right onto the rod, and the ball holds it place. Works great, and the foredeck crew loves it. I will try to take a pic next time I am on the boat.

Another tip from the sonars is to cut the hoops at an angle, sloping towards the forward end of the boom, to make it easier to get the pole into the hoop. This way you can lay the end of the pole on the forward end of the hoop, and slide it in, rather than having to insert it into the hole. I have not tried this one, but it sounds like a good idea.

Hello Frank,

I simply use a small loop of line at the gooseneck to support the forward end of the pole when it is stored on the boom. We keep our toping lift and foreguy attached to the pole all the time. We put the loop along with the toping lift in the forward jaws of the pole when the pole is stored. That keeps the pole parallel to the boom and the toping lift from touching the main. When we get ready to launch we take the spinnaker guy to the forward end of the pole at the mast. That way we keep the foredeck guy at the mast and off the foredeck as much as possible during the launch. Our short piece of PVC is actually a coupling and is located aft (probably two feet) of the midpoint on the boom. You may want to ducktap it on initially to find the best location. I tried using two couplings to better support the pole and it made storing and launching the pole more difficult. We put a little piece of stick-on vinyl on the boom aft of the coupling to keep the pole from scratching the boom. I think I bought that vinyl from Defender.com and it is holding up very well.

The only other issue you need to work with this setup is to have someone help guide the pole into the coupling on the boom when the pole is being taken down. In any kind of sea it is almost impossible for the foredeck person to stow the pole on the boom by himself.

Hope this helps.

Bill

Thanks to all for input on this discussion. To Bill, I have picked up two couplings to mount this weekend. I like the idea of the scuff guard at the back. I had planned to use some wetsuit material wrapped around the boom in that area, though it may not be sufficiently robust. Regarding the dangling loop; does this not allow the pole to bounce all around and beat the mast and boom up in that area? I think I saw that set-up in photos on the Laser site, but I seem to remember that the boom was badly marred around that loop. Having just refinished my spars at the end of last summer, I would like to try to avoid that.

To Dmarkc,I should wait for someone else to comment regarding the running of the jib sheets since I have not sailed with a boom mounted set-upyet, however years ago on my quarter tonner we had a sliding track at the front of the mast to support the pole and we just slid it down to the deck and then used a piece of bungy to retain the topping lift back against the mast to keep it out of the way. It is a certainty that the foresail sheets must go over the top of the topping lift, and therefore over the top of the pole. So with a boom mount, I suppose Laser sailors are grabbing the jib sheet, lifting it, and sliding the pole underneath the sheet (windward sheet) as they prepare to set the pole to the mast. That way, if you have to abandon the hoist and either tack or jibe, the foresail sheets will run clear, though one must at least get the outboard end of the pole down before jibing or tacking, and if tacking, it would be a good idea to get the topping lift back against the mast again so that it does not foul the sheets as they come through. At least, that is how I see it. This all presumes that the guy has not been set at the end of the pole, in which case it will foul the jib sheets coming through, unless the guy is also led under the jib sheet. All of these things are slightly affected by the type of set you plan i.e. bare-away-set, or jibe-set.

That seems to make a lot of sense. When I go to the boat this weekend I will be armed with all that is necessary to do that. I don't know if I can find the 1/4" ready rod, but I can get straight rod and I have taps and dies for everything so can thread what I need. To confirm: 1. Nut and washers to hold rod in place both sides of boom. 2. Another nut spaced somewhere along the 3" extension to locate the end fitting far enough from the boom so that the pole's idea clears the boom. 3. Then the ball secured by a lock nut on the outside. I suppose the rod could then be cut off allowing a few threads onto which to put an acorn nut instead of plastic to clean it up and keep it from snagging on things. Have I got this right? What keeps the pole from banging against the boom? I'm thinking that I could wrap my boom in a couple of places with sleeves of wetsuit material to keep the pole from banging against the boom.