Zincs |
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John Mills
Commodore Joined: 01 February 2016 Status: Offline Points: 122 |
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Posted: 09 June 2019 at 9:07am |
If I can get a cross , I will post it . Certainly not a $100 part .
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Unplugged
# 164 NOTL |
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Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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No idea on the thermostat. I would suggest you take it to a large automotive store and see if they can find a match... I agree it certainly can't be worth $100 plus.
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John Mills
Commodore Joined: 01 February 2016 Status: Offline Points: 122 |
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Thanks Bill on the Fuel pump tip - easy swap and no more oil leak . Factory one has a visible warp . Engine started right back up without a hiccup after just pumping the primer lever a bunch of times.
Is there a cross for the Thermostat . I know Bukh no doubt did not make it , and it probably is in other engines . Friends Laser, #104 seems to be running stone cold - think the old owner maybe took out the stat.
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Winner
Commodore Joined: 07 September 2011 Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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Has anyone found a source for a magnesium anode that will fit our saildrive? I've read in multiple sources that for FRESH WATER, magnesium is a better choice as it is less noble than zinc so protects the saildrive components better.
In fact, the American Boat and Yacht Council only recommends magnesium for freshwater use. As a bonus, it is better for the environment. Since a magnesium anode only lasts 1/3 as long as a zinc, it is not recommended for saltwater use as it would corrode away during the course of a single season. Freshwater, being much less conductive, does not have this issue. The drawback is the increased replacement schedule, since the prop needs to be removed in order to replace the anode on the L28.
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Chris
Eclipse #240 Thunder Bay, ON |
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Bill Layton
Commodore Joined: 15 September 2002 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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There are not many shops who sell Bukh parts. Europe is the only solution and their pricing is quite good compared to past dealers in North America. I use LSM Diesel in Denmark as they seem to have better pricing than Bukh... http://www.lsm-diesel.dk/2012/bestil.php?lang=uk&txk=initshop&n0=4&n1=Partnr.&n2=Beskrivelse&n3=Pris%20ekskl.%20moms&n4=Antal more info: Best fuel filter for our Bukh is Fram P4506PL it's for european diesel trucks (just learned this) available at most autoparts stores her in North America, much cheaper than the comparable Bukh part. I had to change the top plate crank seal (under the flywheel) and this one worked fine (much cheaper) https://www.amazon.ca/Precision-42X56X7-Seal/dp/B00A8CS7SM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1526228267&sr=8-4&keywords=seal+56+x+42+x+7 I have used these prop shaft seals with success a few times (substantially cheaper than Bukh) https://www.boats.net/product/tohatsu/346650130# Fuel Lift pump (better design) https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ruggerini-Fuel-pump-Marine-engine-FIDO-RD-1-CRD-1/152139263679?hash=item236c34eebf:g:nHEAAOSwwpdW71QL Substantially cheaper and this fuel pump's mounting flange doesn't warp and therefore does not leak oil. The original Bukh fuel lift pumps warp on both axis's and leak oil as a result. This new one has a thicker stronger designed flange. You use the gasket it comes with and it works great. All you have to get are 2 x cap screws as there isn't enough space to use the nuts that are used on the original pump. This means you remove the studs and replace them w/ cap screws. Edited by Bill Layton - 30 April 2019 at 7:21pm |
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Comet
Crew Joined: 21 August 2018 Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Does anyone have a North American supplier for the zincs? I've found them in Europe but so far, striking out on this continent. My yard is looking for a lower seal unit and the Louisiana supplier will be ordering through Europe. Putting my launch off two weeks unless I chance it and do a quick haul later. Always something!
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