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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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Joined: 15 September 2002
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    Posted: 16 July 2013 at 10:42am
Frank, under post options (top right) you can edit your post Smile
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frfletch View Drop Down
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Points: 365 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2013 at 9:52am
Must be arthritis or trying to type on an iPhone. It was meant to read "sailed in Hong Kong. We didn't really "Bong" there that much.
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frfletch View Drop Down
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Points: 365 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote frfletch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2013 at 9:35am
Yes. That is a good point if one has big seas. We only occasionally experience seas as the Georgia Strait does not usually kick up that much so I have forgotten all the techniques we used when I saed in Bong Kong in the 70's and early 80's. The Strait is USUALLY a mill pond by comparison, but with decent winds. Just no fetch! I suppose it's "horses for courses".
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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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I've always used the boom bails for reefing and they work fine, leaving the weight aside, if I find I need more shape in the foot of the reefed main because of huge seas I just ease off the reef line a few inches and the foot of the main changes immensely. There's no rule you have to have it cranked down and flat as a board. I never tighten mine all the way. I tighten it based on the amount of shape I want to see in the bottom of the sail. The difference between sailing it flat versus some shape in the bottom is paramount in bigger seas. 
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Points: 13 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmarkc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2013 at 5:44am
We find it best to use a running bowline though - when making an ordinary bowline around the boom, it can get a bit long and reduce the outhaul effect at a time when you are actually trying to flatten the sail.  The bowline knot can try to force itself through the reefing ring causing problems later on.  I know some people who swear by always taking the reefing line back to the main sheet bail but I haven't found that very successful for the second reef as it tends to damage/catch the sail
 
We took the reefing bails off straightaway as anything unnecessary below the boom is dangerous, in my opinion.
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frfletch View Drop Down
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Or.......from the sail come down to the boom and tie a bowline around the boom letting the end float where it will. In other words, don't use the bail. The sail when reefed wants to be flat, so it will sort itself out between the end of the boom where it originates, the ring on the sail, and a floating loop around the boom. We use the bails only when cruising. When racing we use the bowline around the boom. In fact, we are about to remove all the bails to save weight on the boom.
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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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The 2nd reef line goes upto the sail then down to the 3rd bail on the bottom of the boom (3rd one in from the end of the boom) This works fine for all boats. One should never have to winch the reef. Be sure the mainsheet and vang are off and when you pull on the reef by hand it reefs easily all the way down. 

The 1st reef goes to the 2nd bail (in from the end of the boom)

The mainsheet attaches to the bail thats on the end of the boom.
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Winner View Drop Down
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Related question:  I find when using reef 2 I have trouble getting the clew of the mainsail all the way down to the boom.  The direction of pull of the reef line from the aft end of the boom, up to the grommet and then down to the attachment point on the mast seems to want to pull the clew more aft then down.  The result is that the reef line ends up becoming more of an outhaul as I get it in tighter, as oppoed to pulling the clew more snugly against the boom.

I need to check further into this.  I've let off lots of main sheet as I do this so I don't think that's the problem but can double check.  Also, my mainsail is slugs not a bolt rope and so the stacking of slugs on the mast as I lower the sail may create some difficulties as well.  Further investigation required.

Should this continue to be a problem, I'm thinking of attaching a pad eye to the boom with a small block, then running the line from the aft end of the boom, through the turning block and then up to the grommet before coming back down again to the boom attachment point.  I'm thinking this will give a more downward pull to the clew than aft?

Thoughts?
Chris
Eclipse #240
Thunder Bay, ON
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Seawolf View Drop Down
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Points: 118 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Seawolf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 June 2013 at 11:27pm
thanks bill!
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Bill Layton View Drop Down
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1st reef, 35 ft 8mm double braid polyester
2nd reef, 46 ft 8mm double braid polyester
Outhaul, 34 ft 8mm double braid polyester

you do not need high modulus lines for these control lines! Save your $$ for the spinn sheets and halyards.
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Seawolf View Drop Down
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Points: 118 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Seawolf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 June 2013 at 10:48pm
I need to replace my reef lines, they are too short if I rig them the way the manual states (bitter end tied to boom, then up to the reef point and back down to end of boom.) As of now I have enough line to make it to the cheek block, or if I just tie the line to the reef point I can make it to the clutch.

So the question is; anyone have an idea the measurements for the first reef and the second reef line? Also what line size and type are we using?

Thanks
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