Engine trouble

The kill switch position of the ignition stopped working reliably. Since it was intermittent, I replaced the ignition swith. It still only works occasionally. The solenoid is on the top rear of the engine right? The metal tab on top is loose so I was going to try to solder it. In the mean time, we shut down the engine with the lever behind the air cleaner.

The engine has not been starting as of late although we have plenty of cranking power. It takes a shot of diesel starting fluid to get her going after sitting, even if she's warm. And it has also stalled once or twice after the fluid burns off. I'm thinking there is a leak in the fuel line letting air up to the injector. I'm planning to change the fuel filter and then loosen/tighten all the fittings from the pump to the injector.

Today when I checked my oil, it was milky. Could the starting fluid be generating too much pressure in the cylinder and causing a temporary gasket fail? Once started , the engine has been running fine. I'm going to change the oil for starters.

Any suggestions on how to diagnose and fix this baby? thx, js   

Hi Bill, Would you suggest I send the head to Crinmar for evaluation/service? I guess the other option would be to just have it planed and re-install with a new head gasket... I don't have the tools to check the valve guides and seat myself... thanks, John

I removed the 4 nuts, exhaust, fuel, and water. Then cracked the joint by pounding a putty knife into it. It still didn't release all the way. Hopefully there is nothing internal holding it up and I can go after it with a flat bar? I didn't have the heart to pound a screwdriver into the joint. thx, john

Don't use a screwdriver. You will end up with burrs on both the head and top of cylinder. Make a plastic wedge as Bill suggests using nylon or P.E. The best way to have removed your head would have been to remove the injector nozzle, stick a skinny screwdriver into the hole to feel the top of the piston then turn the flywheel until the piston is at the bottom. Then, use some gear oil and put it in the hole where the nozzle fits. Replace the nozzle, loosen the four bolts holding the head and cylinder about 1/4", place some towels at the bottom, and crank the engine over with the ignition. The head will blow off without force. However, now that the seal is cracked, you will likely have to continue using wedges.

Yes. Silicon bronze brazing to exhaust side.

How about that fellow parting his boat out? Perhaps you could acquire the engine from him. Just an idea.

Checked w/ MikeM earlier today and the engine and sail drive already sold.
Keith from Crinmar wants to take a look at mine so the dead head is on its way to Ontario.... Thanks for the offer MikeV but its boxed and gone.
js

Bill , thanks for the info on the forestay.
I'm going to pull the engine and I could use any hints or tips or removal sequence that you have to make this easier.
I read a post with a trick for lifting the engine but the details were not in the post. If you would PM me or email me at fatjohnz28 at gmail dot com
much apprciated, john

What did you finally do in your engine replacement? Did you abandon the Bukh, or did you re-build yours?

Great idea. I am a strong believer in that little engine. I did have to re-build mine a few years ago, but it was not that difficult and it runs perfectly and starts immediately every time. Of all the modern sail drive/engine combinations, I still think the Bukh is the best for our Laser.
I dream of swapping out the diesel for a 10-15 hp 4-cycle outboard power head adapted to the Bukh sail drive to try saving about 50 lbs, but don't really have the time for it and I just love the economy and reliability of the Bukh diesel.