Removing Diesel Adding Outboard

Yes we did this last year to a boat here in montreal. We put a 3/4" piece of plywood inside the transom (18" x 18") as a backup plate. and on the outside we put another 3/4" piece of plywood painted white (a little bigger in dimension than the motor mount flange) and then thru bolted the engine bracket thru it all and it worked very well while the old Bukh was getting rebuilt. FYI we used a 6hp 2 stroke Yamaha 2005 model regular shaft with the regular prop and it pushed the boat to hull speed easily. Hope this helps

when I fully restored my engine last year, I had the chance to have the "help" of Erik Jørgensen of LSM-Diesel [info@lsm-diesel.dk] parts were priced good (Danish Crown vs Can$ helps I think). Shipping form DK was also very fast (took about 6 days to Canada). No shortage of parts there...

 

I get my parts thru the Canadian Distributor Keith Strutt in Kingston Ontario 613-634-8100, He has most parts in stock and pricing is same as you will get from Denmark.

There isn't any more info on that Farr 25 than can be found on google, but eventually I suspect their method and equipment will become available thru someone

 if I didn't turn you off with my posting about outboards-the main advantage of which, when they stop working ,one can just unbolt them and let them sink to the bottom- i have a Nissan 9.8 four stroke,4 blade prop electric starter and 25 inch foot with 60 hrs of use- I'll even throw in an adjustable hanger- but I don't recommend it unless you are absolutely convinced that this is the way to go.

Why go away from the Bukh? This is a great little engine. I just rebuilt mine and converted it to fresh-water cooling with a heat exchanger. I have used outboards before, but if you are using it for any more than getting to and from the race starting line, the diesel is far better.

saildrive280.com doesn't exist anymore. It hasn't for a while now. If you read post #2 in this thread you'll see that a 6hp 2-stroke worked very well. It not only got the L28 to hull speed it did it in a good sea as well. And this was with a regular shaft and prop. Needless to say with a long shaft and the available high pitched sailboat prop it would perform even better. This outboard weighed 60 Lbs, whereas the 4 stroke version of the same weighed a little over 100 Lbs. Which I'm assuming is why the Farr25 comes with a 2-stroke only, maybe for compartment size reasons as well. But as frfletch mentions above the range with a diesel is incomparable to any gas power engine

Edited by Bill Layton - 08 October 2010 at 10:29am

I'm not sure about the states, but parts can still be obtained via Crinmar Marine in Kingston, Ontario (Keith Strutt), and the UK agent. Both of these people are knowledgeable. I don't know what is wrong with your Bukh, but unless you dropped it from a 10 storey building the type of parts that it is likely to need should mostly be able to be fixed. Replacement bits such as rings are actually manufactured in Italy by another company and those rings clearly fit other engines as well, so they will continue to be available. Bearings, likely unnecessary, are mostly generic as well as are the seals. The head (and head gasket)that houses the valves, etc, is a critical piece and if it becomes to badly corroded such that it cannot be repaired, then that item is truly a Bukh part and will not be found elsewhere. Looking at the head of my engine is what drove me to converting it to freshwater cooling via a heat exchanger. That is not a very difficult conversion and I'm happy to help anyone interested in pursuing that path.

To bring you up-to-date on Andiamo, the Bukh was removed this spring and the block and head are corroded from the 25+ years in seawater. I sold the engine and saildrive to a fellow clubmember for spares. There is a discussion on the removal of the engine, which I read AFTER removal. I was able to manhandle the engine out of the boat using block and tackle. I epoxied a backing plate of 3/4" plywood to the stern on the inside and mounted a heavy duty mount for the 9.8 longshaft Nissan 4-stroke. This engine has remote controls for starting and shifting. I mounted the remote in the starboard lazarette. The prop was changed to a low speed prop, yet I get 25% more speed, especially in headwinds. Now there is no oil in the bilge, more storage and no drag. We race PHRF so no issues. So far - so good!

From 4" stock T-6 aluminum, I turned a pulley for an A-section best that fits to the top of the flywheel via the flywheel hold-down nut. On the port side of the engine, if you look closely, you will see several female threaded bosses that take an 8mm bolts or threaded studs. These were used to bold in place a piece of 3/16" x 3" angle aluminum, trimmed to fit such that the top L comes directly under the alloy plate portion of the crankcase just below the flywheel. To this I bolted another 3" x 3" angle to provide vertical surface to which I bolted the second pump. I used an Obedorfer centrifigul with pedestal base for this. From the 4" stock, I turned another pulley to fit onto the pump and trimmed it down to 3 1/2" diameter. This was not to gain more pump rpm, but to give more clearance to the sliding hatch door on the port side quarterbirth. An A-section 27" belt connects the two pulleys that I mounted high enough above the flywheel so that one could still use the rope pull start on the flywheel if necessary. To allow clearance for the knot of the pull-rope, the belt clears the top of the flywheel by about 5/8" or 30mm. I have photos of this arrangement that I would be happy to send if you provide me with your email address.

San Juan Engineering made the heat exchanger with integral expansion tank. It is 9" long, and about 3" in diameter. It fits to the front of the engine directly behind the access stairs. On the front of the engine there are 4 studs (either 6 or 8mm) that fix the steel mounting bracket to the engine. I replaced these studs with longer studs so that the studs could be used to also hold two pieces of 1/4" x 2" pieces of aluminum situated vertically on which to mount the tank, where the radiator cap must become the highest point of the cooling system.

I used the Bukh's own Johnson pump to circulate the raw water that now comes from the sea, to the heat exchanger, and then back to the regular cooling water outlet fitting at the exhaust elbow.

The centrifugal pump circulates the coolant pulling it off the bottom of the heat exchanger, driving it to the engine up at the thermostat area just the way the raw water used to go, and then back into the top of the heat exchanger.

That's it! If you supply me with an email address, I will send some pics which are a better explanation of it.

thanks for the pictures-very nice work. A freshwater cooling system gets rid of one of the Bukh's 2 big problems-dissimilar metals being one and the lack of an oil filter the other.